Mysore Forests

The national parks and wildlife sanctuaries of Karnataka are home to large numbers of elephants, tigers, panthers, bears, a variety of birds, and large reptiles like the marsh crocodile, king cobra and the rock python. After getting acquainted with the city of Mysore, it was time to get close to the wild.

After lunch, we set out for the Ranganatithu Bird Sanctuary. A narrow road took us north. We finally entered the gateway of the sanctuary and parked beside a souvenir stand selling postcards of birds, along with �wildlife� caps. Bird calls echoed from the shores of the river Kaveri as we walked along the water�s edge to the boat jetty. The boatman rowed to a wooded island full of birds. Egrets in bright plumage were tending their offsprings. A large egret took off from the shores and flew to another island, disturbed by the sound of our boat. At our stop on the next island, we saw the nesting open bill stork and the white ibis. A pond heron was gazing at the waters in anticipation of its next meal. A night heron sat on a branch, moving sleepily when it was disturbed - it would be active only after dark. Young painted storks strolled on the shores. Birds squawked on the branches of trees. One of the islands was rocky and barren. The boatman showed us two crocodiles basking on the rocks. So still, it was possible to miss them.

As we rowed closer to the shore, we saw large number of flying foxes roosting on large trees along the waterfront. A kingfisher dived into the water, returning with a fish, and I detected a sudden movement which I thought could be an returned to the jetty and relaxed with a soft drink at one of the stands conveniently located inside the bird sanctuary.

The next morning we drove to the Biligiri Rangaswamy hills. These hills are named after the Biligiri Rangaswamy temple visited by a large number of pilgrims. Right next to the temple is the entrance to the BR Hills Wildlife Sanctuary where we saw a herd of gaur, the Indian bison, crossing the road.

Continuing on this road we came to the K. Gudi Camp which had been set up by Jungle Lodges and Resorts, Bangalore. It follows the same pattern as the Maharaja of Mysore�s former hunting lodge. Our room on the first floor was large. It had a high ceiling. There were comfortable beds and a western washroom. The tents in the lodge grounds are also equipped with attached baths. After a hurried lunch comprising chicken, carp fish, vegetables and dessert, we set off at 4.30 p.m. for a jeep safari in the sanctuary. The enthusiastic manager drove us in an open vehicle and showed us a herd of spotted deer and chital.

The spotted deer is a beautiful animal, its grace perhaps enhanced by the breathtaking lushness of the forest it inhabits. A family of Indian bison stared at us from the safe cover of undergrowth. Another herd of deer bolted away. The forests were thick and green, undulating over the hills, and the drive was exciting. We saw the pug marks of a tiger but they were too old to be taken seriously. A sambar doe saw us and disappeared inside the dense forests. Suddenly the wireless set in our jeep crackled. The voice on the other end was cryptic. �Panther, sir. Come here quickly.� The message ended. The manager excitedly drove us towards the other jeep. By then the panther had disappeared into the forest. Further ahead we met another jeep full of tourists- they had just seen a sloth bear going into the bushes. We were just beginning to wonder whether our drive was going to be a tale of near-misses when Gananthaswamy, the manager, pointed out a herd of elephants at a waterhole below us. They were tuskless females; one of them even had a calf walking beside her, drinking at the waterfront.

We started off at 6.30 the next morning. A couple from Bangalore shares our jeep this time. A crested hawk eagle was perched on the lower branches of a tree. Further ahead, a drongo flew across the road, its long streaming tail trailing behind, with the ends looking like bees following the bird. A metallic call from the bushes indicated the presence of more drongoes. Flycatchers flitted among trees, their whistling calls resounding through the wilderness. We saw male Indian bisons locking their horns in combat for territory. Once they saw us, they ambled away into the thick forests. A herd of bison cows with calves watched us warily from a distance. A crested serpent eagle took off from a tree near us and landed some distance away. We drove back to the lodge and tucked into a sumptuous breakfast of cereal, eggs, bread, paranthas and local delicacies.

After breakfast, we headed for the Nagarhole National Park, where we checked in at the Kabini Jungle Lodge, which like K. Gudi, was earlier the hunting lodge of the Maharaja of Mysore. We locked our baggage in the bathroom and, after another large lunch, some rest and a cup of tea, set off for the late-afternoon safari by open jeep.

As soon as we entered the National Park, we saw spotted deer in the dappled light of a grassy forest glade. The driver and the guide informed us that they had seen a tiger when they were bringing some guests to the park that morning. Now we had to be alert for the alarm calls of langur or deer that would indicate movement of big cats in the area. We saw some Indian bison and wild boar. The arrival of our jeep flushed out grey jungle fowl from the bushes. A Malabar hornbill bison by the grassy swamps. Sambar drinking water at a pool by the river stared warily at us, their noses twitching nervously. A crested serpent eagle swooped down from a nearby tree - it had probably sighted potential prey in the long grasses along the river. Kites and kingfishers hovered over the water. Wagtails strolled along the edge of the river.

The next morning, we were out once again for a coracle ride on the river. This was the first time I was seeing a coracle, which is a leather bound boat, round in shape, with a rather tub-like appearance. We saw a massive tusker on the shores of the river but with the travelers in another coracle shouting excitedly, he decided to retreat to the safety of the woods. Our boatman poled us towards a tusker who was gulping down his breakfast of aquatic grass unperturbed by our arrival. When we had seen enough of the beast downing its breakfast, we returned to the shore, removed our lifejackets, and set off for a jeep safari to see more wildlife. Sure enough, a few minutes from the lake, we saw a sloth bear ravaging a termite mound. He did not see us and continued with his breakfast of termites. He was joined by a multitude of insect-eating birds making the most of the unprotected cache of termites opened up by the bear. Suddenly he saw us and walked away disdainfully.

We drove back to the lodge, and after a late breakfast set off for our return drive to Mysore. As we drove out of the sanctuary gate, the driver of a car ahead signaled that there was an elephant ahead. As we proceeded cautiously, the tusker saw us, trumpeted, and turned in our direction. His tail was twisted, his ears wagged in agitation and his forelegs were lifted for a charge. Our driver, Shankar, was taking no chances. He drove off at high speed on the road and out of the park!

Close encounters

Karnataka has many national parks and sanctuaries teeming with a variety of wildlife. They are:

Bandipur National Park:

The park�s deciduous forests support a thriving population of elephant, sloth bear, tiger, panther, hyena, jackal, wild dog, gaur, sambar, chital, barking deer, mouse deer, four-horned antelope, wild boar, hare porcupine, pangolin, giant squirrel, flying squirrel, langur, bonnet monkey, slender loris, lesser wild cats, civets and other mammals. A variety of wetland birds can be seen at the river Kabini, specially in winter, and during game watching drives you can see peafowl, grey jungle fowl, grey francolin, Malabar hornbill, Malabar trogon, woodpeckers, parakeets, Indian pitta, flycatchers, imperial green pegion, eagles, falcons and the racket-tailed drongo.

Bannerghatta National Park:

The park is more of picnic spot for the people of Bangalore, being less than 30 kilometres from the city. The main attractions are the scenery and the tiger safari in an enclosed area.

Bhadra Sanctuary:

The deciduous forested hill tract, centred around the valley of the Bhadra river, has a substantial wildlife population, including elephant tiger, Indian bison, a variety of deer, the giant and flying squirrel.

Bhimeshwari:

This area, along the river Kaveri, has elephant, panther, deer and the wild boar among the wildlife. It is best known as the site for mahseer fishing. The Jungle Lodges and Resorts� fishing camp offers good accommodation.

Biligiri Rangaswamy Sanctuary: The 324-kilometre wildlife sanctuary, covering high hills, is inhabited by elephant, tiger, panther, sloth bear, sambar, spotted deer, Indian bison and other mammals. The birdlife is extensive. K. Gudi Camp good accommodations at BR Hills.

Brahmagiri Sanctuary:

Part of the Coorg or Kodavu hill area, this sanctuary has the elephant, Indian bison, big cats and a variety of deer. Accommodation facilities are far from satisfactory but you can visit the forest from Kannur and Thalesseri in Kerala. Other Coorg forests can be visited from Orange County Resort near the Dubare Reserve Forests or from the hotels of Madikere (Mercara).

Dandeli Sanctuary:

This area of deciduous forest and bamboo, along a river, has the elephant, tiger, panther, Indian bison, deer and the wolf. Sightings are infrequent. The sanctuary has gained more importance for its waterfalls and white water rafting facilities. Indian Adventures �Bison River Resort and Jungle Lodges and Resorts� Kali Wilderness Camp offer good facilities for staying.

Ghataprabha Sanctuary:

This wetland sanctuary, near the Gokak Falls, is a popular destination to view birds. Most visitors make Belgaum their base and then travel along the river Ghataprabha.

Kokurbelur Sanctuary:

The trees of this little village, off the Bangalore-Mysore highway, are a popular nesting area for pelicans and painted storks, specially in winter.

Mookambika Sanctuary:

Located in one of the wettest sections of the Western Ghats in Karnataka, its evergreen and semi-evergreen forests are home to the tiger, sloth bear, lion-tailed macaque, deer, giant and flying squirrels. There is limited infrastructure for staying and wildlife viewing.

Nagarhole National Park:

The park�s deciduous forests support a thriving population of elephant, sloth bear, tiger, panther, hyena, jackal, wild dog, gaur, sambar, chital, barking deer, mouse deer, four-horned antelope, wild boar, hare, porcupine, pangolin, giant squirrel, flying squirrel, langur, bonnet monkey, slender loris, lesser wild cats, civets and other mammals. A variety of wetland birds can be seen at the river Kabini, specially in winter, and during game watching drives you can see the peafowl, grey francolin, Malabar hornbill, Malabar trogon, woodpeckers, parakeets, Indian pitta, flycatchers, imperial green pigeon, eagles, falcons and the racket tailed drongo.

Ranganatithu Bird Sanctuary:

An excellent place to observe bird nesting activities from late-June to mid-September, Ranganatithu mainly comprises wetlands next to species of wetland birds and the rocky, barren islands are the basking spots of crocodiles and turtles.

Ranibennur Sanctuary:

This patch of scrubland is the habitat of the black buck antelope and its main predator, the Indian wolf.

Sharavathi Sanctuary:

The forests are home to a variety of mammals, birds and reptiles. It is an excellent location for spotting hornbills, woodpeckers, minivets and herons. You also get to see the barking deer, giant squirrel, langur and the bonnet monkey.

Shettihally Sanctuary:

This deciduous and semi-evergreen forest tract has the elephant, deer and the tiger.