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Nestled at a height of
14,000 feet in the Spiti Valley of Himachal Pradesh, Chandratal is a
camper’s paradise. The lake is in a kind of bowl, its water
redefining crystal clear, circled by a bank of soft green grass. It
is of an unimaginable blue, that changes hues as the sun goes through
its paces overhead. Surrounded by bare, stony hills, the natural
tranquility of the scene is further intensified by the utter lack of
any kind of living organism within the lake.
To reach the lake, there
are essentially three routes. The easiest is to reach Manali from
Delhi (Rs.150/- and a night’s bus ride away). From there, buses
leave for Kaza. One can either get off the bus at Batal or Kumaon
Top. The former is preferable, because its easier to set up camp and
food is available. From here, Chandratal is about 4-5 hour’s
walk.
The second way is a bit
roundabout, but more rewarding. This entails getting to Shimla, and
from there moving right across Himachal. From Shimla one gets on to any bus to Rampur, and from there to Kalpa, which is in Kinnaur, an
extremely beautiful area, reputed to have the best apples. From
Kalpa, it’s on to Batal. This route, though exciting, is
slightly unreliable by way of roads and transport; this programme can
take anything between 2 and 5 days to reach Batal.
The third and final route
to Chandratal is what is a real trek. This starts from on top of
Baralacha Pass (18,000 feet) and then comes down to the lake at the
end of 4-5 days of fairly tough trekking. The trek itself is very
exciting, passing over some tremendous heights, and what could be
better than to rest at the end at Chandratal. This route requires
more preparation, since It is longer. I is also crucial to have a
guide on this route; one can be arranged for in Manali, which is the
base.
A few things are to be
kept in mind while embarking on a trip to Chandratal. It is possible
that Inner Line Permits may still be required-these are obtainable at
Shimla and Manali. Also, try and time your arrival at the lake within
daylight, for in the evening the wind becomes too strong to put up
tents. If the intention is to spend a few days at the lake, then it
is essential to carry a stove, kerosene oil and food. These have to
be picked up either from Manali or Shimla. You will also need a tent,
sleeping bags, comfortable walking shoes and warm clothing.
The days are not cold but
the temperature drops quickly after the sun sets, and the wind adds
its bit. The best way to keep warm is to wear clothes in layers, so
carry T-shirts. It also helps to carry some kind of cream to protect
against sunburn. Those who are particular may even carry water
purifying tablets. An ultra-violet filter is quite indispensable at
that altitude for those with cameras.
Keep these few things in
mind and enjoy the scintillating beauty of Chandratal-the best time
to leave would be end July or early August.
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