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These sturdy-looking yet gentle people who migrated
from Afghanistan to the western Himalayas, lead a pastoral life that
they are unwilling to relinquish even in light of education and other
developmental facilities made available to them.
It was Tagore’s
Kabuliwala who came immediately to mind the moment I met Farid
Namaste he said flashing a warm smile in reply to my Adaab. Tall and
handsome, Farid belongs to the Backerwal tribes that migrated to
India from Kaagan in Afghanistan, some 300 years ago. Sensing out
interest he informs, in chaste Urdu, how his ancestors, covering
high-mountain passes, would travel all the way into India during the
winter and get back to their vatan (home-town) for the summer
months. But that was until they decided to make this mulq
(country) their own and, the Backerwals today, residing in the
mountainous regions of Jammu and Kashmir, number about 14,00,000.
Driving towards the
idyllic environs of Lake Mansar, near Jammu, one comes across several
of the Backerwal tribe who seem to almost revel in their existence
with nature. And as we get off occasionally to exchange a few words
with them and take photographs, they pose bemusedly for our cameras
arranging their turbans, straightening their kurtas and standing
proudly next to their flock. But it is towards Farid’s dear
(settlement) that we head, since his invitation for us to come and
visit his home and family seemed too tempting to resist. We spot him
easily from a distance as he stands waiting for us. A cobbled path on
which we walk balancing ourselves precariously, courtest our city
shoes, takes us into his world.
With no land to claim as
their own, the Backerwals are khanabadosh (landless wandering
tribe) who believe that the entire world is theirs. An existence that
they allege has not only been dated back to about 101 BC, but also
mentioned in the Mahabharata. Referred to as the blood brothers of
the Gujjars, the Backerwals are different from their well-settled
brethren in that they eke a living out of a pastoral way of life. In
fact, it is because they look after sheep and goats (bakris) that
they have come to be referred to as the Backerwals.
Boasting a martial
sportsman-type physique, the Bakerwal men may, at first glance,
appear rather rugged and perhaps aggressive. But only a few moments
after meeting them, one realizes that they, on the countrary, are a
very simple, peace-loving lot, who have over the centuries, carved a
romantic, pastoral existence for themselves. And it is their
unquenchable appetite for a life of adventure and of course fun and
laughter that keeps them going even in the face of adversity.
Many of the Backerwals
have given up their summer home Kashmir, so for now, the idyllic
areas around Jammu serve as their summerabode. Often the long journey
takes about two months, for the Backerwals have to move slowly,
cautiously, since they carry with them their entire home, its
belongings and their huge herds. Camps are setup for the night that
serve as sleeping apartments for the ladies, while the men prefer
sleeping under a natural star-studded canopy.
However, upon once
reaching their destination, the Backerwals live in simple huts called
Kullas made of straw, mud and stone. Spacious enough, these,
besides allowing enough sleeping space or women and children, also
have a special corner with its chullah and some seating space
close to it where the family sits together for meals that generally
comprise rice, corn-bread, dal or a simple vegetable. Meanwhile, a
nod from Farid and steaming hot makki-ki-roti appear for us to be had
with huge glasses of milk-a combination that incidentally forms their
staple diet. We believe in simple eating and living, says Farid,
adding that it is this diet together with lots of fresh air and
exercise that enables them to keep absolutely fit and healthy. That
is why perhaps, he reasons, about 85 per cent of the Backerwals have
no health problems. We can even unhesitatingly fight tigers should a
chance arise he says recounting his own encounter with a feline
recently. This sher had eaten some of our animals and was on the
verge of attacking the children when, with the help of two of my
brave, ferocious dogs, I intervened and after quite a scuffle threw
him down in a deep ditch.
As mentioned earlier,
looking after sheep and goats forms the mainstay of the Backerwal way
of life. Their herds are their most precious possession providing
sustenance for everyone. Besides providing milk and its products,
they also help bring in sufficient money and give the Bakerwal a
unique profession. At an appropriate time, the entire herd is taken
to a river for a thorough bath and washing. Once dry, their clean,
gleaming hair is sheared and sold to the Government Shearing Board.
While men remain busy with all this, the women also chip in their
bit-by working on the charkha, spinning wool, knitting rugs
and embroidering them in gay colours.
Despite the vicissitudes
of life, the Backerwals remain a simple, god-fearing lot for whom
following the rules of the Shariaat comes naturally. Come what may,
the Namaz has to be read five times a day. Even little kids, trained
right from an early age, do so with devotion writ large on their
faces. Rozas (regular fasting-period before the festival Id) have to
be observed by everyone. Anyone found missing them has to pay a
jurmana (fine) by giving food and clothing to 60 poor people!
And then, as the day dawns for Id, the Backerwals rejoice celebrating
the festival with saiviyan, sweets and other exotic meals.
Besides the festivals, it
is at weddings that the Backerwals enjoy themselves thoroughly. The
applying of mehndi holds much significance since its bright
colours signify luck and good fortune. And as traditional songs are
sung, the bride gets ready for the big event of her life in a
beautiful dress and hair plaited in numerous braids. Then, as
everyone waits for the baraat to arrive, a procession is seen in the
distance, accompanies with lots of lights, music-especially the dhol
and sword and stick dances.
Upon reaching the bird’s
house none is supposed to enter-until somebody, the groom’s
brother or friends, the groom’s brother or friends, volunteers
to first pick up a huge boulder (deliberately placed) that lies
blocking the passage, on his back. This show of strength earns him
much accolades and of course money, for after all, it was a matter
of izzat (prestige) of the entire baraat.
Married according to
Islamic rites, the groom has to fix a meher-price, at the time of the
nikaah itself. The bride’s parents in turn offer many
precious gifts (not dowry, says Farid) given only for their
daughter’s security-to fall back upon in times of need.
Most of the young men and
women choose their own life partners from any of the deras around
and the parents just give their consent. But the Backerwals are
rather conservative about divorce. A lot of time is given to the
estranged couple to come to a reconciliation but if all efforts fail
then the utterance of the word talaaq thrice in front of a
Qazi annuls the wedding. Remarriage, on the other hand, especially
for widows is encouraged. Men who give sahara to such women by
marrying them, are believed to earn merit in the name of Allah.
Life, till recently, was
one big compromise for the Backerwals, who sometimes have had to even
share the same drinking water with their animals. But now with the
Government’s intervention, clean, filtered water is being made
available. Besides this, mobile schools for the Backerwal children
upto the primary level have been introduced. For grown-up children,
both boys and girls, hostel facilities and education in various
subjects and languages like Hindi, Urdu, English and Arabic is
provided that makes them ready to face the world. But it must be
reiterated that despite this awareness and exposure, the Backerwal
children do not seem keen to give up their pastoral way of life-they
want to continue living as their ancestors did-in the lap of nature.
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