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The Apatanis believe they are the descendants of the primeval man
on earth. Worshipping the sun and the moon, they pray for better
yields of their crops. Their prayers seem to have been answered for
they are skilled farmers who have made prayers seem to have been
answered for they are skilled farmers who have made their lush green
valley famous for wet rice cultivation.
Flanked by the Daffla and
Mikis hills, the exotic land of Lower Subansiri lies at the bottom of
a basin covered with perennial green forest in the state of Arunachal
Pradesh. The inhabitants of this region, one of the major twenty
tribes of the state, are known as Apatanis, because of which the area
is popularly called the ‘Apatani Valley’. Through this
valley flows the Subansiri river, a tributary of the mighty
Brahmaputra of Tsang-po coming all the way from Tibet.
The valley, located in the
tropical rain forest region, receives plenty of rainfall throughout
the year, making it highly fertile. It is also the second largest
populated district of the state, the township of ziro being its
headquarters.
Undulating roads, serpentine alleys and
narrow lanes crisscross this densely inhabited town where about a
thousand houses huddle around a central market place. Being secluded
by mountainous terrain and dense forest, the heart beat of ziro
pulsates at a relaxed and tranquil rhythm. Few vehicles are seen on
the road as petrol is scarce. The market square is a kaleidoscope of
various tribal people visiting from far away places, wearing
colourful dresses and speaking different dialects. Mixed in the crowd
one may find a hunter of the Nisi tribe wearing porcupine quills on
the forelock and puffing at his bamboo pipe; he has for sale a full
bear skin with the head and claws intact. Sitting nearby, his wife
sells medicinal herbs that would cure almost any ailment. Elsewhere a
street juggler in a black cloak and feather cap performs astounding
tricks keeping the spectators spellbound. But the face in the crowd
that attracts one’s attention is that of a stylish tribal chief
in a leopard skin jacket. He carries a vintage sword in a leather
sheath fastened to his belt and his cane woven cap displays the
feathers and beaks of a hornbill.
The Apatanis believe that
they are the descendants of Abo-Tani the primeval man on earth. Their
religion is called Donyi-Polo( the sun and the moon ) which are their
main deities.
Skilled farmers, they
have made the lush green Apatani valley famous for successful wet
rice cultivation that gives the district a stable economy for
successful wet rice cultivation that gives the district a stable
economy. In fact the Subansiri region is also the principal rice bowl
of the state. Like the hill women elsewhere, Apatani women too are
very hard working and do agricultural in addition to the daily
domestic chores. Thus in their society the women hold positions of
authority and respect. Almost every village home has a weaver’s
loom where the women work in their spare time. The rich colours of
the region are reflected in the woven fabrics-shawls, carpets and
dress materials made of cotton r wool.
Apatanis are fond of
bright colourful dresses and ornaments. Elderly women wear tattoo
marks on the nose and the chin; silvers of cane, usually coloured
black, are pierced through the nostrils giving them a rather queer
appearance. It is a tradition dating back to the olden days of
tribal feuds and skirmishes when abducting a beautiful Apatani damsel
was considered an act of valour. A disfigured beauty was less likely
to attract the captor, so the young girls used to camouflage their
graceful looks in this fashion. However, the practice has since
become obsolete and modern girls no longer observe this custom.
Smartly dressed in a blouse and skiri, they loam about freely, like
colourful butterflies. Expert in farming, the Apatanis are also
skilled pisciculturists and cattle breeders. Fish are bred in the
paddy fields hich remain water logged for several months. Some
variety of fast rowing fish freely develop in such shallow water.
Cattle stock includes the Mithun or bos frontalis – a
cross bred animal between the yak and cow, which exists both in the
wild and semi- domesticated forms. This animal has a religious
significance for the people. Traditionally, the Mthun was considered
a symbol of wealth and was allowed to roam freely in the jungles till
it was used either for barter or for food.
The villagers live in
dainty cottages made of wood and bamboo which grows in abundance. On
both sides of the straight village roads are slanting thatched bamboo
roofs, all similar in style and design. Cement, steel, screws and
nails are rare and expensive so cane is extensively used for binding
the wooden planks and bamboos together. The ground floors of these
double storeyed houses are used for cattle, poultry and piggery
while the first floors are used as the residences.
Spring is the most
enchanting season in the Subansiri valley. Flowers blossom in every
tree and nature is in all her colourful splendour. It is the festive
time when the Apatanis celebarate the ten days of Myoko, their
favourite festival heralding the advent of spring. The days festivity
are decided by the village priest in accordance with a particular
conjunction of the sun and the moon (Donyipolo).
During the festival days,
every house is cleaned and decorated. The alleys are adorned with
decorative lanterns and wooden platforms are erected on the central
square of the village as well as at other prominent places. Clad in
his most impressive robes, the village priest sits on the platform
and performs the impressive robes, the village priest sits on the
platform and performs the religious rites. Holding burning incense
in his hand, he chants the prayers, invoking the gods. He seeks the
blessings of Dnyi-Polo for the wellbeing and
Happiness of the
devotees, for a better yield of crops and protection animals from
natural calamities animals from natural calamities. The sacred
offering which includes potfuls of apong( rice beer) and rice flour
are kept nearby. A garlanded bullock or Mithun is kept tied to the
altar to be sacrificed at the end of the several days of festivity.
The religious offerings
are distributed among relatives, friends and neighbours by elderly
women wearing traditional dresses and ornaments. In the evening,
lanterns are lit and men, women and children in clourful attires
throng the streets and balconies of their bamboo houses. People visit
each other exchanging greetings and pleasantries.
Apong is served and taken
with boiled eggs and black rock salt. Throughout the night the
surrounding hills resound with their laughter, songs and merry making
until the next day dawns and the sun god once again peeps over, the
land of the dawn-lit mountains- abode of the Abo-Tanis.
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