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As history unfolds itself, there is a resurgence of respect for
that eternal force-time. Hampi hidden in central Karnataka, guarded
by river and granite ridges, I living testimony to the greatness of a
bygone era.
My recent visit to Hampi in Karnataka
was a memorable experience. Instead of first viewing the capital of
the Vijayanagara Empire from ground level, I climbed up the Matanga
Hill, the highest pointing the area, for birds eye view, a little
before sunrise. Encased in Nature’s amphitheatre, the view, a
little before sunrise. Encased in Nature’s amphitheatre, the
view was really breathtaking. The mellow rays of the morning sun
revealed the vastness and architectural grandeur of Hampi’s
extensive ruins and imposing temples. The symmetrical plan and
elevation of the Thiruvengalanatha temple that lay at the bottom of
the hill on which I stood, the imposing spires of Virupaksha shrine as
hey caught the olden rays of the sun, the river Tungabhadra
meandering through rocky terrain with its banks donning the emerald
green of rice fields fleshy bananas, coconut and sugarcane
plantations-all combine to live life an a throbbing liveliness to the
ruins. The surrounding hills and rock outcrops gave to this city a
sense of impregnability which is why this sit was chosen by the kings
for the capital. His landscape, so tough and defiant to hostile
forces spreads out o the horizon. If only hey could speak? Yes, they
would most poignanly describe a whole way of life and polity.
Even in its ruins, Hampi overwhelms one
with is epic dimensions. The opulence and grandeur of this great city
during its prime becomes very obvious despite the centuries.
He Persian ambassador, Abul Razzak who
visited Hampi in the 15th century had this to say in his
chronicles: The city is such that the eye has not seen and the ear of
intelligence has never been informed that there existed anything to
equal it in the whole world.
Hampi, founded in the 14th
century as the capital o the Vijaynagar Empire, lies in the Deccan
heartland in the state of Karnataka and can be reached in seven hours
by car from Bangalore. Enthusiastically describe as a testament to a
global wonder, its ruins spread over an area of about 26 square
kilometers protected by the river Tungbhadra in the north and by
rocky granite ridges on the three other sides. Its very location as a
capital is testimony to the military shrewdness of its founders. With
its countless herds of monkeys which wander freely in this region,
many believe that it was once the legendary kingdom of Kishkinda,
celebrated in the epic story of Ramayana.
According to historians, the Sagamas
were the first ruling dynasty of the Vijayanagara kingdom which was
vastly extended by the Telugu Princes Harihara and Bukka in the 14th
century. It reached its zenith of glory a hundred years later under
Krishandeva Raya during whose time, Hampi, the city of Victory,
flourished. For 230 yea the kingdom witnessed glorious times as a
mighty empire, famed for its opulence and culture, until 1565 when it
was destroyed by the combined forces of the Deccan Sultanates.
Hampi is now included in eh UNESCO’s
list of palaces of global significance and needs a master plan for
its conservation. The Karnataka Government, together with the
Archeological Survey of India and assistance from UNESCO, the
Smithsonian Institution and several other countries has undertaken
the gigantic work of excavation in he city’s 26 sq kms area.
Mapping of the principal remains is being done and many areas have
been dug up to expose to view remains of temples, places, tanks and
other structures that lay buried for centuries. Without interfering
with their original shape or motifs, a number of structural remains
and scriptures are being restored, in addition to partial rebuilding
and replacement of building elements.
An extraordinary achievement of
excavation work so far is the exposure of a magnificent ritual bat in
the place enclosure. Constructed with chlorite, a gray green stone
not available anywhere in his region, it is a stepped tank, three
metres deep. Water was fed into it by a series of channels.
Hampi is so vast and varied in its
attractions that it would take at least a week for one to see them
all at leisure. But, to one in a hurry, the Hampi panorama must begin
with a visit to the Virupaksha temple, the tutelary deity of the
Vijayanagara kings. It rises majestically at the end of the 700 metre
long chariot street, once the site of a celebrated bazaar. Then there
are the ruins of the palaces of the noblemen which were probably
occupied by the Vijayanagara aristocracy. Though badly mutilated, the
huge free-standing monolithic sculpture of Narasimha 6.7 metres high,
and sculpted in A.D. 1528 on the order of Krishnadeva Raya, is a
remarkable piece.
The most impressive of temples at Hampi
is the one dedicated to Vithala. Its exquisitely carved pillars and
images are a tribute to the skill of Vijayanagara craftsmen who seem
to have handled granite as thought it was clay. The main pavilion
with its 56 pillars, each carved out of a single granite block, is a
structural unit. Hen struck, some of these give out musical notes as
though from different percussion instruments. In the courtyard of
this temple is the magnificent stone chariot minus its
superstructure. It houses the mythical eagle Garuda. The elaborately
carved chariot has huge stone wheels that can be rotated, testifying
to the skill of the ancient craftsmen.
Probably the most photogenic building
at Hampi is the Lotus Mahal-a graceful two-storied pavilion, a
synthesis of the Hindu and Islamic styles of architecture. Not far
from this place are the Elephant Stables-a row of eleven chambers
which once housed the magnificent beasts. Closely is a watch tower
one of several at Hampi.
The Vijayanagara rulers celebrated the
Dussehra festival with much gaiety when the king sat on his bejeweled
throne in the center of Mahanavami Dibba, a decorated platform, and
watched a colourful procession pass by. His place is worth a visit as
the sides of the platform still retain the beautiful sculptures
depicting many soldiers, dancers and an array on animals. Water
tanks and channels abound in Hampi. The most ornate of them all is
the Queen’s bath located in the citadel area, south of the
Ramachandran temple. The temple itself is in the royal enclosure of
the capital. It was perhaps the king’s private shrine and
contains some exceptional carvings and murals both within and on the
outer walls. The outer friezes shown horses, elephants, dancing
girls and infantry in procession, while the inner panels depict
individual deities or scenes from the Ramayana.
The imperial city of Hampi is a town
planner’s dream. The south bank of the Tungabhadra was the
sacred center with many temples along the bank. To the south of this
one can see the fortified urban or royal area in which are located
the remains of palaces, noblemen’s quarters, watch towers and
some more shrines.
The courtly royal buildings and temples
are so close to each other in Hampi that one begins to wonder why it
is so. The answer lies in the fact that in India royalty and divinity
have always existed in close kinship. Temporal affairs were not
delinked from religion and the people who were loyal to their faith
were also loyal to the king. So, temples were built in the closest
proximity to the palace. The skill and devotion which craftsmen
poured into their work adorned the palaces as well s the shrines.
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