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Pachchikam jewellery is
back in fashion. Crafted in Gujarat and Kutch centuries ago, this
style of jewellery is being revived by the contemporary jewellery
designers. Exclusive and artistic, this designer jewellery is
replacing the traditional gold ornaments.
In
the world of fashion and design there is an all round revival of
styles of the lost eras in garments as well as jewellery. One of the
most popular revivals in the world of ornaments is Pachchikam
jewellery which dated back to the 18th and 19th
centuries in India. There are several contemporary designers who
have made a concentrated attempt at returning the beauty of this
jewellery to lovers of this lost art. Designers like Asha Kamal modi
of Art karat in Delhi and Niru Rajeev Kumar of Niru’s jewellery
in Bombay have devoted a lot of time in creating an awareness for
this jewellery.
“Pachchikam
jewellery is a kind of jewellery crafted in Gujarat and Kutch
centuries ago. It was popular at that time and then went out of
fashion till its revival ten years ago,” explains Asha Kamal
Modi of Art karat whose love for traditional jewellery has persuaded
her to delve deeper into the art from. My objective is to wean women
from their infatuation with gold and turn to traditional designer
jewellery like Pachchikam.” Asha travels to Gujarat and Kutch
working with the original craftsmen of this jewellery and instructs
on new designs.
Little
is known of the history of Pachchikam and yet its beginning can be
traced to early European designs worn by the nobility in the 16th
century. Although it has a strong ethnic background, on closer
observation on notices an affinity to the type of jewellery seen in
portraits of British dignitaries in India. It was with the exchange
of trade and commerce that the intricacy of the art reached the
shores of India, where Indian craftsmen added their style to change
it into works of Indian art. There are several definitions for the
word Pachchikam or Panchchkkam as it is sometimes known. It could
be a derivation of pachchigar (which means goldsmith of
jewellery) or it could also mean five fingers (panch)
since most of the jewellery is handcrafted. “Or there is
another definition that explains that Pachchikam in Hindi means
peeche or back since this type of jewellery had gold on
the rear and silver in front,” feels Asha. The Pachchikam
setting is easily identifiable from other Indian jewellery like
Kundan jewellery of Jaipur and Tadtar, though at times it is mistaken
for it, from a distance. But on close scrutiny one can notice that
at times the setting is crude because the work is done by hand. In
spite of that Pachchikam jewellery is fragile compared to Kundan or
Tadtar which makes the latter look like rough country cousins. Gold
was replaced by silver later since the former made the jewellery
unaffordable to many. It could be that in that era the financial
conditions of most of the nobility of those times was unsteady and
brought Pachchikam jewellery within their reach when made in silver.
Research has also shown that this jewellery was worn by children.
Another
reason for opting for silver as the base metal is that it is highly
malleable and also it closely resembles platinum, the metal used in
Europe. Pachchikam jewellery is far from ethnic in appearance. It
is very flashy and can be worn on formal occasions. “Today most
Pachchikam jewellery is made in silver and often gold plated to give
it the appearance of real gold jewellery” says Asha.
The
setting of Pachchikam jewellery encases uncut semi-precious stones
and glasswork in simulated open claw workmanship. Fabrication for
this jewellery takes place in Kutch and Gujarat by families who
specialize in the art that has been handed down from father to son.
“Each piece takes a minimum of a month or two to be made. And a
course there are climatic constraints that make it difficult”
says Niru. The actual process starts with the stone being inserted
in a silver case, the edge of which is pressed onto the stone with
the finger and grooves then filed on it. A closer look shows a
setting which is crude in its execution but it is in his quality that
its aesthetical charm lies making connoisseurs to beauty appreciate
it. There is also a slight departure from European styling which
Indian craftsmen have replaced with their own indigenous touches. It
is a gentle blend of the western genre as well as Indian ethnic
charm. The workmanship involves a very laborious process which takes
time in finishing the piece. Niru traveled extensively in Gujarat
and Rajasthan to track down the best sources and craftsmen. She now
works with just two who know her mode of working quite well. “I
send them sketches of pictures from old manuals and they follow them
quite well. Of course, the first piece may take over a month”
she explains. “But after that it is quite easy when there are
repeats.” Only about three or four pieces are made by Niru and
a popular style like a choker may go into six or seven. Niru
operates from her residence while Asha has an outlet in Delhi and
holds regular exhibitions. “An inexpensive set could cost as
little as Rs. 350/- but a set with clusters of tiny Hyderabadi rice
pearls could take nearly six months and could cost Rs. 3000/- to
4000/-” The main colours of stones are green, red, blue and
white glass with white rice pearls as the popular accompaniment.
The
jewellery is not very expensive and prices could range from as low as
Rs. 330/- to 19,000/- or sets. The advantage of Pachchikam
jewellery is that it cannot be mass produced. The piece is more or
less an exclusive. The craftsmen for this jewellery are very simple,
traditional folk in their lifestyle and manners and do not believe
in leaving their villages. They are also very conservative in their
design sense and prefer to stick to certain set designs instead of
experimenting with new styles. But they are very skilled and proud of
their aptitude. The speed of the modern business world has nor yet
caught up with them.
Most
designers have to convince these traditional craftsmen that they are
truly interested in their craft and in promoting it and will not take
them for a ride. Once a strong working relationship is established
it is very easy to communicate with them and encourage them to try
variations in their craftsmanship. But they are unable to understand
modern jargon like delivery deadlines and there could be a certain
amount of allowance that one may have to make to acquire production
on time.
Pachchikam
jewellery means a variety of bracelets, bangles, necklaces, earning,
rings, chokers, jhumkas etc.
“One
of the most important points to remember about Pachchikam jewellery
is that it fills a vacuum in the field of classy ethnic Indian
jewellery which can be a perfect accessory for evening wear. It is
exclusive and artistic and less expensive than gold. It is also the
kind of jewellery that people can fearlessly travel with,”
remarks Asha. Besides reviving old styles, designers also adapt and
modify styles from periodicals, manuals and museums. Rough designs
are made initially which are worked on in silver by the craftsmen in
their villages. More than ten necklaces could be made over a period
of three to four months, but it is not quantity that most designers
aim for, but quality.
Today
the revival of Pachchikam jewellery has also brought in an interest
from the west for export. It seems that Pachchikam jewellery is all
set for a relaunch in India with designers making an all out bid to
popularize it.
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