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Sardar Samand & Maharani Bagh


There are certain places on this earth whose very name conjures up images of peace and serenity. On a 160 kilometer stretch from the bustling city of Jodhpur are two places worth visiting-Sardar Samand isolated form humanity, and another three hour drive later, Maharani Bagh, the Orchard Retreat of royalty.


Sardar Samand (62 kilometers from Jodhpur), named after the current Maharaja Gaj Singh’s great grandfather, lies on the rod that leads onward to Udaipur and Ranakpur. Located in the Pali district, the Sardar Samand Lake Resort, situated on a hill, was commissioned by Maharaja Umaid Singh in 1933. Designed by the state architect George Goldstraw, also the resident architecture of Umaid Bhawan Palace of Jodhpur, the Resort built in natural rock, is a fine example of the decorative Art Deco style of the thirties.


Sardar Samand’s sleek and anti-traditional elegance that symbolizes wealth and sophistication, is an idyllic retreat for jaded minds and bodies. For here, amid tranquil surroundings, overlooking the lake, teeming with migratory fowls of every size and description, one can sip a lazy cup of tea and give in to one’s wildest daydreams. For those in a mood for an active holiday, a dip in the palace pool, a game of tennis or squash, rowing and fishing are alternative past-times. As for me, a stroll in the vast shrubby forest dotted with a variety of flora and fauna was enough to raise my spirits.


One’s arrival at the Resort is an unforgettable experience. Heavily laced with traditional Rajasthani hospitality, a colourful welcome consisting of Rajasthani dances awaits the not-so-weary traveller. Flowers are strewn all the way up to the top of this wondrous place, giving one the feel of gracious living. A delicious lunch served in true old time style on the terrace facing the Balsamand lake, is strongly recommended. And later, maybe a cuppa in the living room of this hunting lodge covered with numerous artifacts and trophies, each with an interesting story attached to it, related through word of mouth by loyal subjects.


Next to the main Resort is a comparatively newer structure the annexe, with seven 1930’s style tastefully furnished rooms with amenities to suit the modern traveller. A wonderful place to ret one’s bones overnight or for much longer.


The drive through mountain, desert and farmland 100 kilometer further leads to a cluster of Jain temples at one of the five most sacred Jain sites-Ranakpur. Four kilometer away nestling in the remote valley, surrounding by the wooded Aravali Hills, the mango orchards of Maharani Bagh, provide a silent retreat for those visiting the renowned Jain temples. Open daily between noon and 5 pm, the temples with 29 halls supported by 1044 pillars offer a great visual experience.


Maharani Bagh, the Queen’s Orchard, was designed and laid out by the Maharani of Maharaja Takhat Singh of Jodhpur. A stay here is a welcome break for a couple of nights. Five charming cottages overtook a spacious, inviting swimming pool. Between dips in the azure water, one can relax by the pool under shady trees dotted with exotic birds. Thatched hut restaurants add to the mood of the place. An open-air bar-be-que adds a certain mystique to the gastronomic experience.


As the sun dips into the desert horizon leaving a trail of glorious light, special theme dinners in flaming torch lights are held. As the smell of bar-be-qued food fills the air and tribals dance to the rhythm of the desert tunes I know that this is the stuff dreams are made of.



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