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Nalanda University tells a story of a past glory
unparalleled in the universe.
In Bihar State a hamlet
exists by the name of Bargaon. Close to this village lie the ancient
ruins of Nalanda University. The broken walls, countless hillocks and
lakes still bear testimony that Nalanda was once an excellent piece
of architectural art.
“1235 AD. The mighty sun was shining with all its vigour—it
was pouring all the fire that it could on the earth making it
intensely hot. It was a hot summer day. The monastery-cum-university
of Nalanda—the nerve centre of Buddhism—was in flames. The
dancing flames of fire were leaping out quite unmindful of the fact
that the earth’s best seat of learning was getting reduced to
ashes.
Dharamaswamy, the Tibetan lama, was moving like a shuttle-cock
from one corner of the Univresity to another to save its aged
Chancellor. Somehow or the other he would save him from the
attackers, but not the University. It got ruined. Only the ruins of
ancient Nalanda University remains today. It is indeed a living page
of history.”
Even as an uncanny calm
prevailed, the tourists stood transfixed at the spot from which the
ancient ruins of Nalanda university lay yonder. Spell-bound by the
above narrations of the guide, they all were gazing both at him and
the ruins of ancient Nalanda University.
It was a strange, eerie
feeling indeed. Is it what people call miracles of history?
Lifeless stones they may
be yet, the stony walls of ancient Nalanda University are really full
of life. History vibrates here.
While facing these stones
we found ourselves in a different era—in a time zone of history
where each and every word from books on the ancient past virtually
came alive.
The guide moved towards
the monastery. I found myself at the nerve centre of the ruins. “One
there was a big library here. This too was burnt down by invaders…
all the priceless books were reduced to ashes…” Except
for tall grasses there was practically nothing at that place. But it
is a fact that there existed three big libraries in the “Dhammaganj”
faculty of the ancient Nalanda University. The guide moved ahead.
Suddenly, I heard sound of people talking amongst themselves. They
were students of architecture from Aurangabad in Maharashtra state
who were on a college trip. They had come to study the architecture
of the ancient ruins.
Nalanda University was
originally a Buddhist vihar (monastery). A large number of monks
lived there. In Buddhist literature Nalanda plays a pivotal role.
This University produced such scholars like Sariputra and Moudgalyan.
Sariputra was the chief disciple of Lord Buddha and he was conferred
with the epithet of “Dharma Senapati”. He was born in a
small hamlet, Sarichak, lying on the eastern side of the ruins of
Nalanda, its original name as per Buddhist literature was Nalak. With
the passage of time his birthplace may have acquired the name
Sarichak after his name Sariputra.
The importance of Nalanda
as a Buddhist monastery had begun during the lifetime of Lord Buddha
who visited Nalanda several times. Once he lived there for a full
year. In later years Emperor Ashoka built a massive shrine and vihar
at Nalanda.
According to Taranath, an
expert on Tibetan history, Nalanda took the shape of a centre of
learning due to the efforts of Emperor Ashoka. It was considered the
best place of learning in the Magadh empire. Nalanda was considered
the apex centre for literature and education. Scholars from far flung
pockets of China, Japan, Tibet, Siam (Thailand), Burma (Myanmar),
Malaya and other parts of Central as well as South-East Asia thronged
to Nalanda University.
This university imparted
teachings on philosophy, literature, medicine and Buddhism besides
philosophies of Brahmanism and Jainism. To gain entry into this
university a student had a prove his mastery in grammer, prose and
poetry, logic and metaphysics. The famous Chinese traveller Hiuen
Tsang wrote: “Over 40 percent f the students failed to pass
the entry test… it was really very difficult to get an entry
into Nalanda.” The standard of education was very high. To
get details of this university we have to refer to the travelogue of
Hiuen Tsang who studied there for two years. He writes: “Appearing
like a tall mountain due to its sky-kissing minarets, obelisks and
domes, the university was an island of peace. The laboratory emitted
vapours in the morning while a cool breeze entered into the rooms
through its massive windows. The lotus emerging out of the
crystal-clear lakes further added beauty of Nalanda. Teachers lived
in a four-storeyed building with serpentine staircases. Nalanda can
really be a matter of pride for any country.”
From the Temple site-3,
as archaeologists have named the main part of the ruins, I can see
the galleries located below with stuccos built on them. I took out
the picture postcards brought out by the Archaeologist Department
which I had purchased. With their help I tried to recognize the
stuccos. Though some of them were damaged due to ravages of time they
are still unparalleled in their artistic beauty.
The site is surrounded by
a cluster of smaller stupas (domes). It is the place where
Lord Buddha stayed for three months to deliver discourses on
religion. In Temple site-2 was once a stone temple. Nearly 200 small
statues decorate it—their theme have been derived from religious
books on Hinduism. On the right one can see remains of monasteries.
Hiuen Tsang’s
account of this temple says that within the Nalanda monastery there
were eight largely extended rooms and 300 cells. The massive
conference hall was divided into ten parts. The students lived in 300
homes. There were massive libraries which contained a very rich
collection of books on Hinayana, Mahayana, Brajyana Buddhism and on
other religious sects. To meet the running cost of this library the
contemporary kings had donated hundreds of villages. The library had
its own seal. The University did not restrict itself to imparting
bookish knowledge only but specialized training was given in
sculptural art as well. Students were taught how to prepare stone and
bronze statues. The unearthing of fire places and moulds corroborates
this fact. Students were taught the use of copper and other metals.
Famous historian, Cunningham, described the statues found in Nalanda
as the best example of Indian sculptural art. Students were also
taught to create manuscripts with figures painted on them.
Nalanda University had a
galaxy of eminent scholars—Aryadeva, Sheelbhadra, Dharmapal,
Chandragomen, Shanta Rakshit, Padmasambhav, Kamalsheel, Sthirmati,
Buddhakirti, Kumarshree and Sumatisen. Shanta Rakshit merits special
mention for during his time the University assumed global fame. At
the invitation of Tibetan king, Grin-Di-ut Tsan, he went to Tibet,
the “Roof of the World” and remained there till the demise
of the king. In the 8th century, at the time of
Padmasambhav, scholar extraordinaire, the Lamistic tradition took
birth in Tibet.
“…Invaders
destroyed Nalanda University with extreme brutality…” Led
by the guide tourists reach the point from where they had started and
the guide continues “…the half burnt bricks, burnt
pieces of rice… damaged doors… all bear testimony to how
ferocious the attack must have been… they have been excavated by
archaeologists and, if you wish, they can be seen in the museum…”
The guide led the tourists out of the main exist of the ruins.
INFORMATION
How to Get There
By Air: The
nearest airport is Patna (93 km).
By Rail:
The nearest railhead on Delhi-Howrah main line is Bakhtiyarpur, 38
km, though the loop line connects Nalanda.
By Road:
Nalanda is connected by road to Patna, Rajgir, Gaya and
Delhi/Calcutta.
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