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Munnar
is a hill station that defies definition. In fact, it might even
force you to reframe your definition of a hill station.
If
your idea of a hill station is a place that is covered by pines,
pointed cliffs and snow, you are in for a surprise. Munnar is a hill
station unlike any other you have probably been to. Pines do not
surround Munnar; its hills are gentle and undulating and it never
snows in Munnar.
Munnar
is a gem of a hill station in the Western Ghats at an altitude of
about 5000 feet above sea level. Even I discovered it by default. I
was on an extended tour of India's West Coast from Mumbai to
Kanyakumari, when a friend in Cochin suggested the trip. Initially
not included in my itinerary, it turned out to be the most beautiful
part of the whole tour.
I
set out for the four and a half hour journey to Munnar from Cochin by
taxi which I had hired on a day basis. As I left the hustle and
bustle of the busy Cochin city behind me I was greeted by richly
laden coconut palms which lined both sides of the road. After we had
gained some altitude I expected the coconut palms to thin out and
gradually disappear. I was surprised instead by coconut plantations
even after covering more than half the journey. An entire hillside
covered with coconut and not pine trees is a novel experience indeed!
There were more surprises in store. I spotted two mango trees in
bloom among the other trees. Throughout the journey I could see
rubber plantations and black pepper vines clinging to the tree
trunks. At the roadsides, in front of the houses, I saw women drying
black pepper in the mild sun.
While
these sights are unique, the tea gardens which suddenly loom up as
one enters Munnar literally take the breath away. Coconut palms and
pepper now give way to vast stretches of perfectly manicured tea
gardens. Munnar is surrounded by about 30 tea estates, among the
highest in the world, and a forest that is still rich in wildlife and
continues to survive the increasing commercial exploitation of the
hills.
Munnar,
literally meaning three rivers, is located at the confluence of three
mountain streams -- Muthirapuza, Nallathani and Kundala. These
streams meet at the heart of the town and are the source of water for
the townsfolk and visitors. Although the town was the British
government's summer resort in the South, it is still a relatively
quiet place, unlike its distant cousins like Mussoorie or Shimla in
the North, which are now too overcrowded and bursting at the seams.
My
friend at Cochin had made arrangements for my stay at the Club
Mahindra Lakeview holiday resort situated 22 km ahead of the main
town. The journey to my destination was full of fantastic views of
lush green tea estates and beautiful valleys. The clouds seemed so
close that I could almost touch them.
The
resort, which is situated at Chinnanal village, is among the many
that are situated in and around the area. The resort has 32 apartment
type rooms. My suite had an independent bedroom, living room and a
fully furnished kitchen. The best part, however, was the wonderful
view of the vast green expanse and the shimmering Suryanelli lake
that was offered from the balcony.
Munnar
has a number of small and big waterfalls and offers great walks with
spectacular views. The tea gardens are interspersed with cardamom
plantations. A combination that lends an unique aroma to the crisp
mountain air. I took the liberty of venturing into one such
plantation helping myself to some fresh produce. The green cardamom,
when peeled, contains soft and moist seeds with an absolutely lovely
aroma and a delightfully sweet taste.
Munnar
has many interesting places around it for those who want to explore
more. Sixteen kilometres from Munnar is the Iravikulam National Park,
the perfect place to see the rare but almost tame Nilgiri Tahr. The
highest peak in South India, the Anai Mudi (2695 m) also forms a part
of this park. The more adventurous can visit the nearby Mattupetty
Dam where a six seater motorboat can be hired for Rs.200/- for half
an hour. The Singakundam forest is also nearby. A 32 km steep climb
took me to Top Station on Kerala's border with Tamil Nadu. Top
Station offers exhilarating views over the ghats and the plains
below.
The
beauty of Munnar lies in its quietness, scenery and tranquility. It
is a place where you can totally cut off from the world and all its
cares if you so desire. It is this quality, perhaps, which makes
Munnar a favourite with honeymooners.
Munnar
is truly unique. Covered with coconut, cardamom, pepper, rubber and
tea instead of conifers and a treat to visit especially during the
months of December and January. If Mussoorie is the Queen of hill
stations then Munnar is surely the Queen of Malabar.
Information
Getting
There
Munnar
is best reached directly from Cochin by bus. There are 5 daily buses
that cover the 130 km in about four and a half hours. It is five
hours away from Kottayam and Madurai, six hours from Coimbatore and
nine hours from Thiruvananthapuram.
The
nearest railhead is Alwaye (4 hour drive). Nearest airport is Cochin.
Coimbatore has both an airport and railhead.
Accommodation
There
is ample accommodation available in and around Munnar. The rates vary
from Rs.50/- per night at the bottom end to Rs.2,200/- at the top
end.
Economy:
The Government Guest House. (Tel: 30385); Sree Narayana Tourist Home.
(Tel: 30212); Hotel Poopada. (Tel: 30223).
Midrange:
Hotel Isaac's The Residency. (Tel: 30247); Hotel Hill View. (Tel:
30567); Royal retreat. (Tel: 30240).
Luxury:
Mahindra Lakeview Munnar (Telefax: 04868-49224; E-mail:
<[email protected]>; Sterling
Holiday Resort. (Tel: 04868-49205/11).
Season
The
best time is either from April to May (4th April to 18th May is the
peak tourist season) or late December to mid January.
Although
Munnar is the commercial centre for many tea estates that surround it
there is no major tea outlet. The small town of Adimali on the way to
Munnar, however, is the ideal place to shop for spices like black
pepper, cardamom and coffee beans. Eastern Condiments (Pvt.) Ltd.,
who have a factory near Munnar, have a shop at Adimali from where you
can purchase various South Indian powders like rasam, sambar, curry
and pickle powder besides other spice powders in convenient
polypacks.
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