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There is no better way to get an insight into the
major political, religious and cultural influences that have shaped
India than to visit Madhya Pradesh—touristically virgin land
upto a couple of years ago.
The geographical
heartland of India, Madhya Pradesh covers an area of 442,841 square
kilometres and has a population of approximately 70 million people.
Though Hindi is the main language spoken, there are still some
pre-Aryan tribal groups living here, principally the Gonds and the
Bhils who speak their own dialects. We will start our voyage of
discovery through Madhya Pradesh in the extreme north western corner,
with the former princely State of Gwalior, its massive fort
dominating the crowded, noisy, busy city.
Gwalior has a legendary
beginning, which goes back to when a hermit cured a man called Suraj
Sen of leprosy, gave him a new name, Suraj Pal, and assured him that
as long as his descendants retained the name Pal, they would remain
in power. Through Suraj Pal’s 83 descendants, the name stayed
intact, as did the power. But sure enough, when the 84th
descendant decided to be original, and changed his name, the kingdom
was lost. A nice story, but what is more certain is that the Tomar
dynasty came to power in Gwalior in 1398, and that over the following
centuries, it was the scene of much intrigue and wars with rivals.
Later, the Moghuls, under Babur, took Gwalior first and held it,
until it was taken by the Marathas in 1754.
Gwalior fort continued to
change hands over the years until it finally passed into the hands of
the royal family of Scindia.
It is impossible to
escape the fort which so dramatically overshadows the city and whose
palaces and temples are a reminder of its history. Man Mandir, the
palace of the musician-king, is a symbol of Raja Man Singh’s
stature not only as a king, but also as a musician and a connoisseur
of the arts. Tales of his lover for the Gujari girl he called
Mrignayani, the doe-eyed; his prowess in war and his vision abound.
His commitment to the arts and his love of music were passions shared
by his favourite queen in whose palace, Gujri Mahal, he founded the
famous Gwalior school of music where the legendary Tansen was to
receive his early training. Even today music remains integral to the
people of Gwalior.
The fort is massive,
about three kilometres in length, and at times one kilometre wide.
Its massive walls rise 100 metres above the steep approach road to
the entrance. Several other palaces and temples are dotted around the
massive fort, including the twin Sas-Bahu Temples which date from the
9th to the 11th centuries. Definitely worth a
visit is the Jai Vilas Palace and Museum. Occupying pride of place in
the museum is a silver model railway, that used to chug its way round
the immense dining table, carrying brandy and cigars to the rich and
royal diners.
Down below in the town,
people spill out into the streets. The facades of homes and shops
cram every available space encroaching often upon the exotic but
neglected exteriors of lovely old homes. Ancient crafts jostle for a
place with modern necessities. Jewellery shops, sari stalls, leather
outlets… all catch the eye. Crowds swirl around. This is a city
where the past is palpably present. The turrets of the Jahangir Mahal
catch the eye and transport us back into time…
One hundred and one
kilometres south of Gwalior is Jhansi. Replete with legend and
saturated with history, Jhansi is a place which has a dramatic
history, but not too much to retain visitors today, other than the
fort. The fort is occupied by the army, but you are allowed to visit
and wander around the walls, which offer good views over the city.
The best known figure in Jhansi’s history is the 19th
century Rani, who took up arms against the British during the Indian
War of Independence. The British, in their acquisitive greed for ever
more control over the Princely States, had annexed Jhansi in 1853,
when the then Raja died without a male heir. But they had reckoned
without the Rani, who was in the forefront of Jhansi’s revolt
against the British. She fled to Gwalior, and disguised as a man,
fought the British, and was killed in battle.
A few miles from Jhansi
is the small town of Dhatia, another former Princely State with a
pretty palace overlooking the lake. Also close by is one of the
little known gems of Madhya Pradesh, the gorgeous fortified town of
Orchha. It was the capital of a Rajput kingdom from the early 16th
century onwards, until the capital was moved tow and a half centuries
later, leaving Orchha abandoned. The result is an architectural time
capsule. Today, you can wander virtually alone around the deserted
fort, which is in excellent condition, with only your imagination as
company. Orchha is a pretty, friendly little town with a small
population, a handful of beautiful 17th century temples
along the river bank, and it is one of the places in India where you
feel that history literally surrounds you. Ask one of the stall
holders to make you fresh aloo ka parathas, or to fry you up some
pakoras, sit on a charpoi with a cup of hot, sweet tea, and offer
silent thanks that this 17th century master-piece is still
watching over daily life, unrenovated, unmodernized, and full of
history.
The temples of Khajuraho
are one of the “big” sights of India, and many tourists
visit them, flying down for the day from Delhi or Varanasi, but
although these rushed visitors do get to see the temples, sadly they
see nothing of the rest of the State.
Housing one of the most
impressive Indo-Aryan temple complexes in the country, Khajuraho’s
temples are famous for their superb carvings, many of which are still
in excellent condition. Executed 1,000 years ago, between 950-1050
A.D., during the time of the Chandela dynasty, there has been
speculation about why these magnificent structure were built in such
a remote, isolated spot. Whatever the logic, it was a fortuitous
choice because it is possibly due to the very fact that they were so
isolated that these temples were saved from damage. The temples are a
riot of carvings, of gods and goddesses, musicians, beautiful women,
animals, but more that anything else, they are temples of love and
eroticism. Khajuraho is a small town where, if you wish to get
around, you travel by cycle rickshaw.
Bhopal the State capital,
is a historic town which still has much to attract visitors, for it
is a city with a recorded history going back at least to the 11th
century.
Forty six kilometres to
the north of Bhopal is the ancient Buddhist shrine of Sanchi one of
the oldest in India, and certainly one of the most interesting.
Though Sanchi had no connection with the Buddha during his lifetime,
it was because of Ashoka, whose second wife belonged to “Vidisha
nearby, that this flat top of a hill became one of the more important
Buddhist pilgrimage centres with temples, monasteries and stupas. The
main stupa which was built by Ashoka in the 3rd century
B.C., was half the size of the present day one and made of bricks
with a wooden railing around it. The elaborately carved toranas or
gateways were added in the 1st century B.C.. Both sides of
the toranas are covered with prolific and consistently exquisite
carvings depicting scenes from the Jataka tales as well as incidents
from the life of the Buddha, and are in a good state of
preservation.”
There are many smaller,
less well reserved Buddhist sites around Sanchi, in Sonari, Satdhara
and Andhar.
South west of Bhopal is
Indore, another former Princely State, and a major textile town.
There are vestiges of the town’s princely past, in the chhatris
or memorial tombs to the rulers, and the rather tumbledown Rajwada,
or old palace, in town. Many people use Indore as a base for
exploring the nearby sites at Mandu and Ujjain.
Mandu, or the “City
of Joy”, is a superb hill top fort, deserted, dramatic, and
alive with ghosts. The former capital of the Sultanate of Malwa is
breathtakingly dramatic, high on a hill, the largest standing
fortified city in the world. Its walls have a circumference of 75
kilometres, and have stood for over 300 years. Inside, there are
lakes and palaces, gardens and trees, a dazzling variety of
architecture. There are many palaces and pavilions to explore, but
the best known are the beautiful Jahaz Mahal, or ship palace, where
the architectural illusion is completed by the two surrounding lakes.
This was formerly the royal harem. The Hindola Mahal, or swing
palace, derives its name from the inward slope of its walls supposed
to create an impression of swaying. You can easily spend all day in
Mandu, wandering in and out of palaces, pausing to admire the beauty
of the Champa Baoli, the former baths, with subterranean levels, and
the huge 15th century Jami Masjid, the finest example of
Afghan construction in India.
Ujjain, 80 kilometres
from Indore, is one of India’s holiest cities for it also
happens to have one amongst the 12 jyotirlingas in the country. South
of Indore is the little town of Maheshwar, home to another royal
family, the Holkars. “Maheshwar, also known as Mahishmati, in
the past, finds mention in the epics Ramayana and Mahabharata. The
city was revived from centuries of neglect, by Rani Ahilya Bai of
Indore who restored its temples and fort complex. The fort contains
the throne-room where a life-size statue of Ahilya Bai is seated on a
throne. The temples are adorned with intricately carved doorways and
balconies. The city is also famous for its fine cotton sarees.
The town of Jabalpur, to
the east, is the second largest in the State, and is the main
departure point for two palaces—the stunning gorge in the
Narmada River, known as the marble Rocks, and the Suberb Kanha
National Park to the south. The Marble Rocks, known locally as
Bhedaghat, are about 20 kilometres from Jabalpur, and the ideal way
to see the gorge is by boat. It is a delightful trip, highly
recommended.
PILGRAM’S PROGRESS
Ujjain, 80 kilometres
from Indore,is one of the country’s holiest cities. Hindu
pilgrims flock to his town on the banks of the River Shipra, which
shares the honour of holding the spectacular Kumbh Mela. The
mahakanteshwar Temple is one of the most important in the town, along
the ghats there are other temples, and there are many more scattered
all over the town, some old, some modern, and one, the Gopal Mandir,
deep in the bazaar, is a good example of 19th century
Maratha architecture.
The confluence of the
River Narmada and the River Kaveri, has been a place of pilgrimage
for centuries, and the little island, Omkareshwar, is especially
important for pilgrims. The island is picturesque, with a number of
famous temples, the most sacred of them all being the Shri Omkar
Mandhata, with its “Jyoti Lingam”.
Close to Sanchi, there
are a number of small towns, many of which have significant religious
connections, and attract pilgrims. Udayagiri has a series of Gupta
caves dating from the 4th to the early 7th
century AD. Two caves are Jain, the remainder Hindu, and many have
beautiful carvings. Udayapur is famous for its 11th
century Neelkantheswara Temple, with its lavish and beautiful
carvings. The temple was constructed in such a way that the first
rays of the morning sun shine straight onto the Shiva lingam.
SOME CELEBRATIONS
Fairs and festivals are
an integral part of Madhya Pradesh and contribute to the continuity
of the State’s tradition of greatness. A riot of colour, gaiety,
song and dance characterizes every festival with almost every region
having its own traditional from of celebration.
Each spring, Khajuraho is
the setting for one of India’s most beautiful Dance
Festivals. For seven days, classical dancers perform against
the backdrop of the temples, making the sculptures and architecture
come to life.
Other festivals you can
enjoy within the state are the Malwa Festival and
Orchha Festival held annually at Malwa and Orchha
respectively. The prestigious Tansen Music Festival at
Gwalior is a fitting tribute to this maestro—one of the nine
jewels at Emperor Akbar’s court. A real treat is the Crafts
Festival at Panchmari—the quiet little hill station just
comes alive at that time. A very useful annual event at the mela
grounds is the winter bonanza of the Auto Mela where
one can purchase brand new vehicles at heavily discounted and easy
loan-and-installment rates. On the anvil is an annual crafts mela to
be organized at the Manav Sangrahalaya, Museum of Man, at Bhopal—a
time to really get exposure to the crafts and craftsmen—not just
of Madhya Pradesh—but from all over India!
The tribals of Madhya
Pradesh celebrate, with gusto, the advent of different seasons at a
fair. Called madai, this is where the family shopping is done and
where parents find suitable matches for their children. Every tribal
village has a madai.
Dussehra:
Among the tribals of Bastar, the festival of Dussehra is celebrated
in great style. Images of Devi decorate every corner of the village
and dancing, singing and revelry mark the occasion.
Simhastha Festival:
According to Hindu scriptures, it is said that when the sea was being
churned for the life-giving elixir, drops of it fell into various
lakes and rivers. Among them was the river Shipra at Ujjain. Every
year in the month of Chaitra (April), beginning on full moon day and
continuing up to the next full moon in the month of Vaisakha (May),
this consequently becomes the site where millions of pilgrims
congregate to bathe in the river’s holy waters.
Panchakroshi Yatra:
During Vaisakhi the holy town of Ujjain is filled with people
participating in a grand tour of the city. The tour which goes on for
four days includes the Chardwar Yatra which is a visit to the four
gates or dwars. According to legend it is said that when Lord Shiva
founded Ujjain he erected four gates in order to guard the city.
Mahashivratri:
This festival is celebrated throughout Madhya Pradesh with great
fervour. At Chauragarh, located at a height of 3,000 feet, the temple
of Shiva is visited by millions of pilgrims. Long queues of devout
followers climb the 110 steps leading upto the sanctum sanctorum,
where, on this day, a trident is planted before the idol.
At the imposing
Mahakaleshwar temple in Ujjain, which houses one of the 12
jyotirlingas in the country, prayers mark the occasion of
Mahashivratri.
At the Matangeshwar
temple in Khajuraho, the marriage of Shiva with Parvati is celebrated
with great pomp and splendour. This is a tradition which has survived
unbroken from the days of the Chandela dynasty. Today the fair that
accompanies the celebrations is the biggest in Chattarpur District.
SHIVPURI
The old summer capital of
the Scindia rulers of Gwalior, Shivpuri is about 15 kilometres
southwest of Gwalior. Its royal legacy goes back even further,
however, to the Mughal emperor Akbar, when the dense forests around
Shivpuri were his hunting grounds, yielding up elephants for the
imperial stables. Its undulating hills, luxuriant forests and rich
wildlife made it a natural choice for the summer resort capital of
the Scindias. The exquisite palaces, hunting lodges and graceful
Chhatris (cenotaphs) erected by the Scindia princes have been
preserved for us to enjoy. The wildlife has also been protected, with
the establishment of Madhav National Park.
The 156 square kilometre
park is open throughout the year and offers abundant opportunities
for sighting a variety of wildlife. The predominant species is deer;
the most easily sighted are the graceful little chinkara, the Indian
gazelle and the chital. Other inhabitants of the park include the
leopard, sloth bear and the long-tailed langur monkey. Because of the
artificial lake, the park is rich in birds as well. If you are very
lucky, you may spot some of the rarer inhabitants such as the painted
stork or paradise flycatcher.
On the edge of the park
is the Sakhya Sagar Lake, which is home to a variety of reptiles. You
might see the marsh crocodile or mugger, the Indian python or even a
monitor lizard. A good place to watch them from is the Boat Club on
the edge of the lake.
But definitely tear
yourself away from nature long enough to go to the Chhatris of the
Scindias. Set in a formal Mughal garden, the two memorials to Madhav
Rao Scindia and the dowager queen, Maharani Sakhye Raje Scindia, face
one another across a water tank. Their architecture is a synthesis of
Hindu and Islamic styles, with shikhara-type spires and Rajput and
Mughal pavilions. The white marble of Madhav Rao Scindia’s
memorial is inlaid with semi-precious stones, creating a
spectacularly rich effect. The memorials are tended to daily by
ceremonially dressed retainers who place flowers and incense before
the life-size images of the Scindias. In the evenings, the deep hush
is broken by music as musicians sing classical ragas before the
statues in the Chhatris.
HOW TO GET THERE
The nearest airport is at
Gwalior, with connections from Delhi, Bombay, Bhopal and Indore. Or
take a train from Delhi or Bombay to Jhansi or Gwalior. Shivpuri has
regular bus service from Gwalior, Bhopal, Indore and Ujjain.
PACHMARHI
Pachmarhi is a hill
station in the low-lying Satpura hills of Madhya Pradesh. This
beautiful area was first discovered by Captain Forsyth, a Bengal
Lancer, in 1857. On his advice, it was developed into a sanatorium
and hill resort. The architecture and city plan still reflect its
colonial antecedents.
The area is off the usual
tourist beat, and hence not over-developed. Instead, it is simply a
lovely, relaxing area to “get away from it all”. Panchmarhi
is a great place for walks along more or less traveled pathways.
These can lead you into caves richly decorated with rock paintings as
old as 1000 BC depicting warfare, food gathering and hunting. Other
paths take you to Dhoopgarh, the highest point in the hills, from
where the sunsets are quite spectacular. Or you can be led down
gorges and valleys where streams and shade have fostered luxuriant
growth, spangled with waterfalls and pools.
Apsara Vihar (Fairy Pool)
is a lovely little bathing pool and ideal picnic spot for families
with small children, since the pool is quite shallow. It deepens only
near the base of the falls which cascade gently into its waters, For
more adventure, the waterfall Rajat Pratap plunges over a 350 feet
precipice, only a ten minute walk away from Apsara Vihar.
More strenuous walks are
available, such as the seven kilometre trek to Jalawataran. The lat
four kilometres to the base of the first cascade of the falls is a
bit taxing, but worth it, for these three cascades are the prettiest
of Pachmarhi’s falls. Some easy rock-climbing is available near
the summit of Lanjee Giri.
There are also places of
religious significance: Mahadeo hill has a shrine to Lord Shiva, and
on the east side of the hill is a cave will rock art. Four kilometres
from Mahadeo, Chauragarh hill is a prominent landmark whose sacred
crest is crowned with emblems of Mahadeo worship. Jata Shankar is a
sacred cave where Lord Mahadeo hid himself to escape from the demon
Bhasmasur.
Some interesting primeval
forest tribes, the Gonds and the Korkus, live in the area as well.
The Gonds are particularly known for their lively wood carvings.
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