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Ken River Lodge - Riverside Retreat



For a pure fun gateway, laced with he right dose of action, is the Ken River Lodge located in the unostentatious village of Madla, on the banks of the Ken river.


This is the great poet Kalidasa’s land. The lyrical poet’s canvas stretches from the Vindhyas to the Himalayas. In his poems, there are eloquent references to the rivers and streams that dot this region. The river Ken is one of them. Ken, acorrupted version of ‘Kiyan’ in turn derived from Karnavati from ancient times, emerges in Madla after a 50 km stretch in closeby Panna National Park.


The Ken River Lodge has the right ingredient s that make up a fairy tale. In this serene tranquil setting from the window of my rustic designed room with all amenities attached, I see lush vegetation surrounding this idyllic land. Rose apple trees that line the river banks had, perhaps provided inspiration to Kalidasa for his master work, Meghdoot.


The Lodge is a private retreat with just 10 rooms, enabling its hospitable hosts popularly known as ‘Major’ and ‘Vinnie’ to weave their magic. Made to look like local village the rooms of the Lodge have private verandahs and courtyards in true rural fashion. This has none of the gloss of a five star hotel. All rooms are fitted with coolers which as Major comments “have been found to be efficient for this hot dry climate.”


But who wants to remain indoors here? One’s sense of adventure is awakened by the unexpected. Spead across seventeen acres of land the Lodge has the Ken River attached to it literally! Here, should one choose to relax there is no paucity of ways to do so. One could put one’s thinking cap on and fish for fresh mahseer or Indian trout. Sit on the 70 foot high machaan of the Lodge and bird watch. The machaan also provides an excellent retreat at night when spirits are high! Or, just daydream.


As dusk settles across this land of a thousand legends, and the mahua and tendu trees that line its picturesque landscape change their hues to a brilliant scarlet fun never stops at the Lodge. I am invited to take a swim in the crystal clear river.


Instead, I choose the boat ride as moonbeams hit the water and voices of people on the treetop restaurant of the Lodge fade into oblivion. If ever there is eternity, it is here. And, I realize that my four day visit is just not enough. I must return to this land of enigmas and a thousand mysteries.


Panna matchbox town, a kilometre away has interesting sights dotted with different pages of history, including a wide range of temples. One could take a jeep ride into the nearby Panna National Park. Or perhaps hope to see a cheetal from the back of an elephant Or visit the surrounding colourful tribal villages and hobnob with the adivasis or local Yadavs. Witness diamonds being dug, washed and sorted at India’s only diamond mine- the Panna Diamond Mines. There is a continuity of history in this region that few other places can boast of. Cascading waterfalls, imposing forts and palaces, cave paintings dating back to the Mesolithic period, there is not much missing from this unexplored area. My hosts, having grown up in these parts, provide that human touch with spicy legends about the history which cannot be found in any tourist brochure. Just 20 kilometres away is the temple city of Khajuraho, a must on every tourist itinerary. Khajuraho is also the nearest airport. Though transport for the average tourist is a problem, the hospitality of the Lodge starts from the time their guests land. If you decide to take the more leisurely train, stop at Satna, directly connected with Delhi, Bombay and Calcutta.



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