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Scorching sun, baked sand. An eerie silence. Yet a
striking colourful façade which soothes your senses. That’s
Kachchh. A desert on the north-western border of India, adjoining
Pakistan.
After Ladakh, Kachchh is
the second largest district of India, and a sparsely populated one at
that. Not more than 23 people live per square kilometre. Kachchh is a
dry bed and arm of the sea divided into two parts – the Great
Rann to the north and the Little Rann to the east.
Locally known as tikkar,
the Rann or the Desert is made of vast featureless, endless salty
flats. The low lying areas have little salty vegetational islands
called bets. Every year the salinity increases making life
more difficult.
Erratic rainfall makes
life further difficult for the people. The almost perennial shortage
of fodder for cattle forces them to migrate from place to place. Sand
and rocky land gives very little opportunity for farming so most of
the people are dependent on livestock. Herds of goats, sheep and
camels are a common sight in Kachchh. The people earn their
livelihood by selling milk and milk products.
The Kachchhi, inhabiting
this harsh inhospitable terrain, has an immense capacity for
tolerance and love. The people live here in close harmony. In spite
of their hardships the lifestyle of the people of Kachchh are closely
linked with a respect for nature. Nature’s denial of greenery
has been prominently substituted in their colourful costumes. These
colourful outfits contrast with the dull atmosphere of this arid
land. A noteworthy fact is that in Kachchh each caste is
distinguished by the designs, patterns and colours of the embroidery.
Kachchh has a long
seafaring tradition which continues down to the present time.
Kachchhi sailors have in image of skill and daring. Mandavi on the
Kachchhi coast was an important port. Foreign trade in fact formed
the traditional basis of Kachchh’s ancient prosperity. Textiles,
jewellery enamel work, embroidery, ivory carving etc. were exported
to Africa and the Persian Gulf.
Much of Gujarati
embroidery belongs to Kachchh. Made popular through Bombay films, the
colourful embroidery is now famous even in distant shores. The
amazing output of intricate works of embroidery, mirror and appliqué
work in the absence of a satisfactory infrastructure is intriguing.
After livestock a major share of Kachchh’s economy is borne by
its handicrafts industry. The most famous area in the Kachchh region
for its embroidery is Banni. The area, however, is inaccessible
during the monsoon. Repeated draught and famines of the past have
compelled the Gujarat Handicrafts Industry to take steps to improve
conditions of artisans.
Each caste group has a
village to itself. Community feeling is dominant in all villages.
Marrying outside the kutumb (community) is unheard of. During
marriages and funerals expenses are shared by the community. Each
village consists of a cluster of bhungas or jhumpa
dwellings made of stone, mud and dung. Each bhunga is a rounded
structure with conical roof. Bhungas are made to withstand the
extreme climate of this place. The thick walls keep the interior cool
from the scorching heat of the day and warm during the chilly nights.
Each hut is decorated with mud work painted white and inlaid with
tiny mirrors. The bhunga is spotlessly clean from inside. A pile of
quilts are an essential part of a family’s possession. In fact
the prosperity of a family is assessed by the amount of quilts it
possesses.
Of the various castes in
Kachchh the most fascinating are the Rabaris. Their origin is
obscure. According to one version they originated from Rajasthan
where their descendants lived in Jaisalmer. A Muslim ruler of
Jaisalmer fell in love with a Rabari girl. The whole community was
against the match and therefore moved out, partly for fear of
reprisals from the king, and partly out of a sense of honour. But the
king’s men gave them pursuit. Many Rabaris were killed but,
ultimately, to preserve her honour, the girl was swallowed by the
earth. According to another story a Rajput ruler sacrified his life
to save the Rabaris. As a mark of respect and to mourn for the dead,
Rabari women always wear black and the men white.
It is customary for a
Rabari bride to own three heavily worked bodices and a woolen bandhni
(tie & dye) shawl. The colour of the shawl is orange for
unmarried girls and red for the married. All Rabari girls stay at
home with their father’s family until they reach maturity. Dowry
is exchanged. A Rabari girl receives her mother’s jewellery and
sheep from the husband’s family.
Kachchh wool has long
been famous for its quality. The exquisite shawls and blankets woven
by the Rabaris command a high price.
Almost all the hills in
Kachchh are crowded with buildings shrines or forts. The walled city
of Bhuj is overlooked by the citadel of Bhujia, which was built by
Rao Godji II. Bhuj was once the capital of the kingdom of Kachch.
Kachch Museum in Bhuj is Gujarat’s oldest museum which houses
collection of archaeological items and inscriptions.
Little Rann is home to
the Indian Wild Ass. The wild ass is a distinctive variety and found
nowhere else in the world. The best way to see wild ass is from an
open jeep. The Kachchh is also home to a diverse range of fauna.
Other forms of wildlife also abound in the region. Visitor species of
birds, flamingoes and avocet descend every year to breed.
The best time to visit
this region is from November to March. During the nights if you
happen to take a stroll, the eerie silence is broken by melodious
Sufi bhajans (hymns) as men gather around bonfires sing to
entertain themselves.
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The mystique of Kachch is
to be experienced. It is a journey into another world.
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