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Garhwal is known as the land of the Gods, and so it
truly is. Serene ashrams and legendary temples nestle against a
majestic mountain-side and a seductive ever-changing landscape…
indeed a rich kaleidoscope of scenery.
The mountain of Garhwal
mean different thing to different people. To the adventurers they
present a challenge to his indomitable spirit. To an artists they may
be the theme for a painting, poem or song. But to most of us the
Garhwal region is the home of the gods, the source of the holy
rivers.
Life in Garhwal centres
around two river systems, the Bhagirathi and the Alaknanda. The
legendary Bhagirathi has its source at the Gaumukh glacier in the
Gangotri region while the Alaknanda finds its source in the Satopanth
glacier in the high rugged mountains well above the tree line.
For the journey to
Gaumukh, the shortest route is from Rishikesh, the gateway to the
great pilgrim centers of Garhwal. By the banks of the Ganga are
temples and ashrams that teach yoga and Hindu philosophy as in the
ancient scriptures. About 70 kilometers upstream from Rishikesh is
Deoprayag, the sacred confluence where the Bhagirathi and the
Alaknanda meet to form the Ganga. Following the Bhagirathi northwards
involves a pleasant drive through several little villages, quite
typical of the Himalayas-a cluster of ten or fifteen small houses
would often make up the whole village. Most villages are surrounded
by apple orchards or terraced fields of rice, wheat and barley. These
fields, sculpted over generations, are what have sustained Garhwal
for many hundred years. Essentially an agrarian society, the Garhwali
people eke out a living from these fields.
Upstream is Uttarkashi.
The town is usually full of god-fearing pilgrims, eager trekkers,
determined mountaineers, casual tourists and even disillusioned
youth-now on their search for the truth seeking solace in eastern
mysticism. But once the sun goes down all would have converged at
Hotel Satyam, sharing the small space there over a freshly cooked
dinner of rice and spiced potatoes.
Across the town, on the
other bank, is the Nehru Institute of Mountaineering. The Institute,
staffed with some of the most able and experienced mountaineers in
the country, runs various courses in mountain techniques for
beginners and advanced learners too. And if you are trekking on an
impulse, you could always rent out equipment from them.
Northwards in the
Bhagirathi valley, the road continues to Gangnani known for its hot
sulphur springs, past tantalizing landscapes and a series of hairpin
bends to a sweeping vista of peaks at Suki. A little ahead, the river
turns eastwards towards Harsil. Harsil was once the adopted home of
George Wilson, the Englishman who introduced apple and apricot trees
in the region. Onwards, the narrow canyons echo the roar of the
waters of the river shortly before the roadhead at Gangotri.
The small stone temple at
Gangotri is dedicated to the river goddess Ganga. It was built by a
Gorkha General Amar Singh Thapa more than 250 years ago at the very
site where legend has it that king Bhagirath had meditated intently.
By doing so, the king pleased the gods and caused the holy waters of
the Ganga to descend from heaven onto earth. So the river got its
name Bhagiriathi.
Gangotri, at an altitude
of 3,048 meters is only the representative site of the source of the
river, Gaumukh, the glacial source, is a day’s walk from here.
The trail, though very commonly trod upon by both pilgrims and
trekkers, passes through small woods of pine and birch. A couple of
tea-stalls en route cater to travellers with basic foodstuff. The
trail levels out at Bhujbasa where one can stop over for the night
and continue the short walk to Gaumukh in the morning. Gaukukh, 3,892
meters above sea level, is an awesome place, the river gushes out of
the snout of the glacier in an angry torrent carrying with it large
chunks of ice as it hurtles on its downward journey. Here, you will
find many mediating sadhus and pilgrims performing age-old rituals to
purify the soul of all sins. The waters of the Ganga are believed to
contain life-giving properties and it is often that devout Hindus
carry some back home to the ill and the dying. One can also view the
snow covered Bhagirathi group of peaks and the spectacular Shivling
massif from here. If one were to continue the trek across the glacier
and up the sleep mountain-side, one would reach the base of the
Bhagirathi at Nandanvan or the vast meadows of Tapovan at the base of
the Shivling.
There are several
trekking opportunities at high altitudes starting from Gangotri. In
fact, it is quite possible to trek from Gangotri to the Alaknanda
valley via Kedarnath, the famed temple of Shiva, or across the high
Kalindi Pass, at 5,969 meters. But it is more practical to follow the
overland route along the river to Badrinath. During the course of the
two-day drive we pass by the four prayags-the holy confluences of
Rudraprayag, Karanprayag, Nandprayag and Vishnuprayag. The first of
the five confluences and also the main one is Deoprayag near
Rishikesh which we’ve passed by earlier on in the journey. It is
advisable to break journey at Joshimath and move onwards to Badrinath
the next day. On the narrow road between Joshimath and Badrinath is
Govindghat which is the roadhead for the short trek to the valley of
Flowers and the holy Sikh shrine of Hemkund at a height of 4,329
meters.
But to follow the
Alaknanda to its source means going beyond Badrinath, a restricted
area, making it a pointless journey to pursue. We have to be content
with hearing about the region. Around Mana village, a predominantly
Bhotia settlement and the last village on the Indian side before the
border with Tibet, are located many sacred sites by the riverside.
This is also the source of the mythical Saraswati river which joins
the Yamuna and Ganga at Prayag, far away down in the plains. This is
also where Maharishi Vyasa is believed to have composed the
Mahabharata, the greatest epic of all times, several thousand years
ago. And up the glacial source of the river is the Satopanth Lake
where the divine trinity of Brahma, Vishnu and Shiva are said to
meditate beneath the Swargarohini peak, the Path to Heavan which
divides the two glacial sources of the Ganga.
TREKKING TRACKS
The Garhwal Himalayas
offer a variety of treks for both the seasoned trekker as well as the
beginner. Some of the popular treks in the region are VALLEY OF
FLOWERS-HEMKUND Roadhead: Govindghat
Trekking days: 4
Season: July to
mid-September
Maximum elevation:
Hemkund (4,329 meters)
The valley of flowers
stretches to about five kilometers in width with altitudes ranging
from 3,000 meters to 4,000 meters. It has an unique ecological cycle
and flowering rhythm which is why this is one of the most popular
treks in the region. The Aster, Anemone, Himalayan Blue Poppy Dwarf
Iris, Primula, Potentilla. Pink Balsam, Purple Monkshood and Brahma
Kamal are only a few of the exotic species of flora growing here.
The Himkund Lake is
sacred to both the Sikh and the Hindu communities. The lake is
surrounded by snow-covered mountains and one is able to view the
Neelkanth peak from here.
DODITAL
Roadhead: Kalyani
Trekking days: 4
Season: June to October
Maximum elevation:
Dodital (3,038 meters)
The crystal clear waters
of the lake at Dodital are surrounded by dense forests of Oak, Pine,
Deodar and Rhododendron. The forests are home to many species of wild
animals, often spotted by the lake. This is just the place for keen
anglers and bird-watchers.
GANGOTRI-TAPOVAN-NANDANVAN
Roadhead: Gangotri
Trekking Days: 6
Season: June to October
Maximum elevation:
Nandanvan (4,500 meters)
Gangotri is where devout
Hindus converage for a dip in the holy waters of the river Ganga. The
trek follows the river upstream to its source at the Gaumukh glacier.
The trek to Tapovan and further to Nandanvan involves traversing this
glacier and climbing up steep mountain-sides. Tapovan and Nandanvan
are the base-camp sites for climbers to the Shivling and Bhagirathi
peaks respectively.
HAR KI DUN
Roadhead: Sankri
Trekking Days: 7
Season: June to October
Maximum elevation: Hari
Ki Dun (3,566 meters)
The Har Ki Dun valley is
small and unspoilt where people share quaint customs and a religious
culture quite different from other parts of Garhwal. The trek is
through little villages and patches of dense forests.
ROOPKUND
Roadhead: Mundoli
Trekking Days: 9
Season: June to October
Maximum elevation:
Roopkund (5,029 meters)
The lake Roopkund, frozen
almost all the year, has been the source of much speculation since
the discovery of human skeletons and copper plates dating back six
hundred years.
The trek offers excellent
views of the Nanda Gunti and Trishul peaks and passes by another high
altitude lake, Hemkund.
There are two ways of
doing these treks-backpacking by yourself or joining an organized
group trek run by an adventure travel company.
Doing it yourself would
possibly include the hiring of porters and a guide who would assume
the responsibility of route-finding. Language translation etc. though
you would have more flexibility, the problems of being on your own,
particularly if inexperienced, could spoil the trip altogether. This
is when organized treks make better sense as the travel travel
company takes care of all details-from the hiring of porters to food
and campaign equipment.
Almost anybody can do the
treks mentioned here. All that you need is to be physically fit. If
you are not it is advisable to build up fitness before the trip. A
trek should be selected keeping your abilities, health and experience
in mind.
The equipment you would
require is: Trekking boots well broken into, a wind and waterproof
jacket, a down feather jacket, other warm clothing cotton clothing,
sun glasses, sun screen, lip salve, a cap and other items of personal
nature. All other equipment required for camping is usually provided
by the agent on location.
HI-ADVENTURE
Skiing: the Garhwal
Mandal Vikas Nigam is developing a ski resort at Auli (3,000 meters)
near Joshimath. The Nigam runs skiing classes every winter. The Ski
slope, about three kilometers long is set amidst picturesque
surroundings, offering a view of some of the highest peaks in the
world. Auli is already attracting skiers in large numbers,
particularly during the ski festival held here annually.
River Rafting: The
turbulent waters of the river Ganga are ideal material for rafting.
This sport has rapidly become popular in India. Many adventure travel
companies organize rafting trips on the Ganga, near Rishikesh. The
trips are led by trained and experienced persons. All equipment is
provided by the organizers or agents.
Mountaineering: In
Garhwal you have a variety of climbing possibilities-there are small
and easy peaks and there are high peaks, technically tough. Here are
some which draw large number of mountaineers every year: The Gangotri
group of peaks (6,577 meters to 6,672 meters), Thaley Sagar (6,904
metres), Bhrigupanth (6,015 meters), Meru (6,660 meters), Kedarnath
(6,968 meters), Santopanth (7,075 meters) and Sudarshan Parbat
(6,507 meters) are only a few.
The Nehru Institute of
Mountaineering at Uttarkashi runs courses in various levels of
mountain techniques for beginners and also advanced learners. The
Institute helps organize mountaineering expeditions. Equipment can
also be directly rented from the Institute.
All foreign expeditions
must obtain prior permission from the Government of India for
climbing peaks in the Indian Himalayas on an applicable through the
Indian Mountaineering Foundation. The group would have to abide by
the rules and regulations set by the organization and the Government
of India.
NATURE’S TRAIL
The Garhwal Himalayas
boast of a unique and diverse flora and forest types. The various
forest types are broadly categorized into low hill forests, Chir Pine
and Himalayan Oak forests, Spruce, Cypress, Rhododendron forests and
the Northern Bushland.
The alpine meadows in
northern Garhwal though little known, are a treasure house of
flowering varieties-Potential’s, Gentian, Golden Kingcups,
Saxifrages, Primulas, poppies, Balsem are only a few that grow in
wild abundance on these slopes.
The Valley of Flowers
located at an altitude of 3,962 meters and stretching about five
kilometers in length and two kilometers in width is a dream come true
for any nature lover. Flowers of rare quality such as the Himalayan
Blue Poppy and the sweet-scented Brahma Kamal grow here in plenty,
though the meadows of Rudranath, Gorson and Kedarnath are not to be
underestimated.
With its varied
topography, climate and natural forests, Garhwal is endowed with a
rich and variegated wildlife. In the lower hills, the large mammals
that are found include the Tiger, Leopard, Elephant, Spotted Deer,
Barking Deer, Antelope, Wild Boar, Langur and Rhesus Monkey.
The snowy ranges are
characterized by rare species like Musk Deer, Snow Leopard, Brown
Bear, Himalayan Black Bear, Bharal and Tahr.
The Chilla Sanctuary,
within the Rajaji National Park near Rishikesh, is well known for its
elephant population. Other game parks include the Kedarnath Musk Deer
Sanctuary and the Gobind Ballabh Pant sanctuary.
The bird life, confined
to the lower hills, including the Great Indian Hornbill, Hoopoe,
Indian Treepie, Large Pied Wagtail, Woodpecker, Warbler to name a
few. Higher up are found the Red Billed Blue Magpie, Golden Oriole,
Large Green Barbet, Paradise Flycatcher amongst others. Beyond 1,500
meters above sea level bird life consists of the Himalayan Whistling
Thrush, Blue Rock Thrush and White Capped Redstart. Living close to
the snows and very rare to sight are the snow Pigeon, Snow Partridge
and Himalayan Snow Cock. But the most magnificent of birds in Garhwal
is the Monal Pheasant, usually found at altitudes above 3,000 meters.
PILGRIM’S PATH
The Garhwal Himalayas
have been a pilgrim destination since Vedic times, and the spirit of
pilgrimage is woven into its spiritual beauty. Most temples here set
amidst beautiful landscapes.
The temple in Garhwal are
dedicated to different Hindu deities. Most sacred of the pilgrimages
are those of Badrinath, Gangotri, Kedarnath, Yamunotri, the Panch
Badris, Panch Kedars, and the Panch Prayags. For the Sikhs, Hemkund
Sahib is a significant pilgrimage. Other places of worship are
Kalimath, Guptakashi, Trijunginarayan, Gaurikund, Anusuya Devi,
Surkhanda Devi and, of course, Rishikesh.
Rishikesh is a city of
ashrams and temples. By the banks of the river Ganga, in the
foothills of the Himalayas, the spiritual atmosphere in Rishikesh
draws pilgrims in large numbers. Rishikesh is the ancient roadhead
for all pilgrim traffic in Garhwal.
The temple of Badrinath
is dedicated to Badri, is better known as Lord Vishnu, and is
considered to be the most sacred to be the most sacred of all Hindu
pilgrimages in India. The temple is situated on the right bank of the
Alaknanda river at an altitude of 3,030 meters. In the vicinity are
cold and hot springs, the waters of which are regarded sacred by
pilgrims.
Kedarnath is the most
significant of all Shiva temples. At an altitude of 3,584 meters,
this 12th century temple is situated at the base of the
Kedar peak. The samadhi of Adi Shankaracharya, the Hindu philosopher
and saint, lies behind the temple. Less than a kilometre up the
mountain is the Chorabari Lake, now known as the Gandhi Sarovar. This
is where the ashes of the Mahatma were immersed more than four
decades ago. The walk to Kedarnath is along a 14 kilometer long mule
track starting from Gaurikund along the right bank of the Mandakini
river.
Gangotri temple is
dedicated to the river goddess, Ganga and is situated at an altitude
of 3,048 meters. The temple was built by a Gorkha General Amar Singh
Thapa, 250 years ago. This is the representative site of the source
of the famous river named after the goddess. The road is motorable
right up to Gangotri.
Yamunotri, the temple of
the river goddess Yamuna, is an altitude of 3,030 meters, about six
kilometers below the glacier from where the sacred river emerges. The
road is motorable up to Hanumanchatti from where a 13 kilometer walk
leads to the temple.
Panch Badri comprises of
the temple at Badrinath, of Adi Badri Yogdhyan Badri, Vriddha Badri
and Bhavishya Badri. The temple are all dedicated to Lord Vishnu and
are particularly sacred to the Vishnava sect of Hindus.
Panch Kedar consist of
all the major streams of Garhwal with the Alaknanda river are
consideration sacred and are visited by pilgrims on their way to
Badrinath or Kedarnath. The five most sacred of these Prayags or
confluences are Deoprayag, Rudraprayag, Karnaprayag, Nandprayag and
Vishnuprayag.
VISITING GARHWAL
GETTING THERE
By Air
Vayudoot airlines run a
service from Delhi to Jolly Grant which is 18 kilometer from
Rishikesh.
By Rail
Train connections are
available to Dehradun and Rishikesh from Delhi to Bombay.
By Road
There are regular bus
services to major towns in Garhwal starting from Delhi. Taxis and
coaches are available of hire at Rishikesh and Dehradun. The state
Transport Buses also ply between all major towns in Garhwal.
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