With
a combination of scenic beauty, tea gardens and sites historical and
religious, the Dooars is ideal for people who prefer to have their
holidays in a relaxing low-key note or a highly structured one.
Despite
its undoubted importance, the region occupying the foothills of the
eastern Himalayas has remained curiously semi-anonymous. As a link
between the eastern plains and the hilly country of Bhutan, this
region has been traversed by traders and travellers since time
immemorial. As the cultivation of tea became commercially gainful --
giving rise to the number of tea gardens -- and timber merchants
discovered the virgin tracts of sal and other important trees,
coupled by its nearness to Siliguri -- the gateway to the Eastern
Himalayas and the north-eastern states -- this region called Dooars
became an important commercial zone. But what remained unexplored was
the natural beauty of the region. The local inhabitants too seemingly
content to let the world pass by. Tourism never really took off and
the visitors who deigned to come this way made do with the bungalows
and lodges run by the forest and other governmental departments.
So,
as guests of the Teesta, Tea and Tourism Festival -- organized by the
tourism departments of West Bengal, Sikkim and Darjeeling Gorkha Hill
Council -- we were surprised to be taken on a journey by a local
passenger train that leaves Siliguri as early as 6 am. We boarded the
nondescript meter gauge train that travels to the interiors of
eastern Dooars. A quick appraisal of our fellow passengers revealed
that commercial travellers and people in a hurry gave the train a
wide berth.
The
early morning mist was just lifting off as the train cleared the
boundaries of Siliguri town. There was an exhilarating freshness in
the air, a smell of earth. Soon the train was weaving its way through
rolling tea gardens. In the distance, we could make out the dark
silhouettes of the mist-laden hills. By the time we were steaming out
of the first halt with the impossible name of Pashrashray, the orange
sun was glowing in the eastern sky.
We
cut through picture-postcard settings -- tea gardens with their chest
high bushes dazzling under the morning sun; colourfully attired women
plucking tea leaves, their heads bent in fierce concentration; the
mountains afar towering above us all.
We
had just begun to settle down trying to grasp the finer nuances of
the journey when the train gave a piercing hoot. In an instance, the
view around us changed dramatically. From the sun-drenched open
countryside, we were transported to the depths of a jungle where
daylight barely managed to trickle in past the thickly canopied
tree tops.The temperature dropped sharply and we drew our shawls
tighter. We had entered the Mahananda Wildlife Sanctuary, now a
vestige of the once luxuriant forest that thrived here. Another sharp
hoot and those sitting beside the left side windows seemed to be
excited into a flurry of activities. Pushing my way through a row of
cameras, I managed to catch the glimpse of a huge tusker ambling away
from the railway tracks.
Once
upon a time this was elephant country. But the vanishing forests and
such advancements like laying of the railway track have taken away
much of their home. Consequently, there is a constant tussle between
man and beast as to who is the most powerful. Local people are full
of stories like of the time when a herd of elephants tried to uproot
the railway line and forcibly dislodge a running train after one of
their babies was killed by this monster. Famous as the hunter of
rogue elephants, Calcuttan Ranjit Mukherjee recalls the umpteen
incidents when he would be summoned to liquidate the giant pachyderms
because they had unwittingly killed several people. According to him,
the compensation paid by the forest department and the present urge
to preserve the remaining pockets of jungles has lessened the
man-animal conflict.
We
crossed the Gulma watchtower and the train carried on with some more
toots and whistles. The forest cover lightened and we saw flocks of
deer and several peacocks sunning themselves. We crossed Sevoke and
again entered the world of tea gardens. Bagrakote, Odlabari, Damdim,
New Mal Jn., Chalsa, Carron, Madarihat, Kalchini, Garopara .... the
stations came one after another... a few of the passengers got down
and even fewer got in. Catering to the tea gardens mostly, the
stations had huge godowns to store and transport the tea produced in
the surrounding gardens. In between we crossed several rivers --
Diana, Mujnai, Torsa and others -- rippling streams flowing through
rocks and boulders. Those wanting to visit Garumara National Park or
Chapramari Sanctuary can get down at Chalsa and get dropped at their
respective destinations by hired car locally available. For Jaldapara
Sanctuary, one can get off at Madarihat and then travel by road. The
Jaldapara Tourist Lodge is a few minutes drive from the station.
Our
journey terminated at Rajabhatkhaoa, the entry point to Buxa Tiger
Reserve, the eastern limits of the Dooars. Of course, one can travel
straight to the Tiger Reserve by travelling till Alipurduar by
overnight train or bus from Calcutta and then by road to Buxa. There
are also regular bus and taxi service till Alipurduar from Siliguri.
But the scenic countryside is enjoyed best by this train journey.
According
to local belief, the king of Bhutan shared a friendly meal with a
local chieftain at this point and hence the place got its name --
Rajabhatkhaoa -- the place where the king had his meal. There is a
spartan but comfortable bungalow here, at a stone's throw from the
Railway Station. There are several watchtowers within the reserve
from where one can have a glimpse of deer, elephants, gaur, etc. and
though the home of several tigers, one has to be extremely lucky to
catch sight of them.
Jainti
is another picturesque corner of the Reserve. The forest bungalow is
strategically located on the river bank offering a grand view of the
surrounding hills. Uphill Bhutanghat is flanked by hills draped with
verdant forests. The bungalow here overlooks the Raidak river and was
built as early as 1904. This is again elephant country and the salt
lick beside the river is a great attraction to the animals.
From
Rajabhatkhaoa, we toured the Buxa Tiger Reserve and proceeded to
Cooch Behar, by road. Once an independent kingdom, it joined British
India to avoid being attacked by Bhutan and was consequently absorbed
into the Indian Union and merged with West Bengal. Even though the
erstwhile glory has diminished to a great extent, Cooch Behar town
still preserves its monuments with pride and glamour.
The
history of Cooch Behar dates back to the period of the Pala-Sena
rulers (11th-12th century AD). Of the ancient remains, mention may be
made of the Rajpat of Gossainimari, Siva Temple of Baneswar and the
old palace of the Khen dynasty.
But
the twin attractions of Cooch Behar are the palace built in 1887 and
the temple dedicated to Madanmohan, an incarnation of Lord Krishna.
Noted
for its elegance and grandeur, the palace was built by Maharajah
Nripendra Narayan. Raised on a basement of 1.5 metres, this double
storied building covers an area of 4768 sq. km. Built on the concept
of classical European architecture, its frontal facade consists of a
series of arches resting by an alternate arrangement of narrow and
broad piers to contain single and double Corinthian pilasters
respectively. The centrally located Durbar Hall is built to resemble
St. Peter's Church of Rome --- dodecagon in shape, resting on four
arches supported by massive Corinthian pillars and a lantern on top.
After being taken over by the Archaeological Survey of India, the
50-odd rooms are being thoroughly renovated and will probably be
turned into a museum. Presently, the entire palace is illuminated and
at night takes on the appearance of a fairyland.
Situated
in the heart of the town is the temple dedicated to Madanmohan. Near
it is a large waterbody called Sagardighi that is the home of many
migratory ducks in winter. Interestingly, almost all the old
buildings of Cooch Behar deserve to be protected as heritage
buildings.
Cooch
Behar can also be directly approached from Calcutta by overnight
train and bus. Or reached by road from Siliguri. There is no dearth
of budget accommodation but those wanting something better can opt
for the luxurious Circuit House.
Tangled
in the past, the tourism aspect of Cooch Behar seems to be full of
promises -- waiting to be discovered by the discerning traveller.
Information
Siliguri
is well linked with Calcutta by air, road & rail. There is no
dearth of accommodation here.
Accommodation
at Buxa Tiger Reserve is limited and advance booking is advised. For
more details contact: Field Director, Buxa Tiger Reserve, Alipurduar,
West Bengal. Keep allowance for postal delays.
For
more details and booking of accommodation at Cooch Behar, contact:
West Bengal Tourism, Hill Cart Road, Siliguri Or, Office of the
District Magistrate, Cooch Behar, West Bengal.
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