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Serene Beauty of Eastern Dooars



With a combination of scenic beauty, tea gardens and sites historical and religious, the Dooars is ideal for people who prefer to have their holidays in a relaxing low-key note or a highly structured one.

Despite its undoubted importance, the region occupying the foothills of the eastern Himalayas has remained curiously semi-anonymous. As a link between the eastern plains and the hilly country of Bhutan, this region has been traversed by traders and travellers since time immemorial. As the cultivation of tea became commercially gainful -- giving rise to the number of tea gardens -- and timber merchants discovered the virgin tracts of sal and other important trees, coupled by its nearness to Siliguri -- the gateway to the Eastern Himalayas and the north-eastern states -- this region called Dooars became an important commercial zone. But what remained unexplored was the natural beauty of the region. The local inhabitants too seemingly content to let the world pass by. Tourism never really took off and the visitors who deigned to come this way made do with the bungalows and lodges run by the forest and other governmental departments.


So, as guests of the Teesta, Tea and Tourism Festival -- organized by the tourism departments of West Bengal, Sikkim and Darjeeling Gorkha Hill Council -- we were surprised to be taken on a journey by a local passenger train that leaves Siliguri as early as 6 am. We boarded the nondescript meter gauge train that travels to the interiors of eastern Dooars. A quick appraisal of our fellow passengers revealed that commercial travellers and people in a hurry gave the train a wide berth.


The early morning mist was just lifting off as the train cleared the boundaries of Siliguri town. There was an exhilarating freshness in the air, a smell of earth. Soon the train was weaving its way through rolling tea gardens. In the distance, we could make out the dark silhouettes of the mist-laden hills. By the time we were steaming out of the first halt with the impossible name of Pashrashray, the orange sun was glowing in the eastern sky.


We cut through picture-postcard settings -- tea gardens with their chest high bushes dazzling under the morning sun; colourfully attired women plucking tea leaves, their heads bent in fierce concentration; the mountains afar towering above us all.


We had just begun to settle down trying to grasp the finer nuances of the journey when the train gave a piercing hoot. In an instance, the view around us changed dramatically. From the sun-drenched open countryside, we were transported to the depths of a jungle where daylight barely managed to trickle in past the thickly canopied tree tops.The temperature dropped sharply and we drew our shawls tighter. We had entered the Mahananda Wildlife Sanctuary, now a vestige of the once luxuriant forest that thrived here. Another sharp hoot and those sitting beside the left side windows seemed to be excited into a flurry of activities. Pushing my way through a row of cameras, I managed to catch the glimpse of a huge tusker ambling away from the railway tracks.


Once upon a time this was elephant country. But the vanishing forests and such advancements like laying of the railway track have taken away much of their home. Consequently, there is a constant tussle between man and beast as to who is the most powerful. Local people are full of stories like of the time when a herd of elephants tried to uproot the railway line and forcibly dislodge a running train after one of their babies was killed by this monster. Famous as the hunter of rogue elephants, Calcuttan Ranjit Mukherjee recalls the umpteen incidents when he would be summoned to liquidate the giant pachyderms because they had unwittingly killed several people. According to him, the compensation paid by the forest department and the present urge to preserve the remaining pockets of jungles has lessened the man-animal conflict.


We crossed the Gulma watchtower and the train carried on with some more toots and whistles. The forest cover lightened and we saw flocks of deer and several peacocks sunning themselves. We crossed Sevoke and again entered the world of tea gardens. Bagrakote, Odlabari, Damdim, New Mal Jn., Chalsa, Carron, Madarihat, Kalchini, Garopara .... the stations came one after another... a few of the passengers got down and even fewer got in. Catering to the tea gardens mostly, the stations had huge godowns to store and transport the tea produced in the surrounding gardens. In between we crossed several rivers -- Diana, Mujnai, Torsa and others -- rippling streams flowing through rocks and boulders. Those wanting to visit Garumara National Park or Chapramari Sanctuary can get down at Chalsa and get dropped at their respective destinations by hired car locally available. For Jaldapara Sanctuary, one can get off at Madarihat and then travel by road. The Jaldapara Tourist Lodge is a few minutes drive from the station.


Our journey terminated at Rajabhatkhaoa, the entry point to Buxa Tiger Reserve, the eastern limits of the Dooars. Of course, one can travel straight to the Tiger Reserve by travelling till Alipurduar by overnight train or bus from Calcutta and then by road to Buxa. There are also regular bus and taxi service till Alipurduar from Siliguri. But the scenic countryside is enjoyed best by this train journey.


According to local belief, the king of Bhutan shared a friendly meal with a local chieftain at this point and hence the place got its name -- Rajabhatkhaoa -- the place where the king had his meal. There is a spartan but comfortable bungalow here, at a stone's throw from the Railway Station. There are several watchtowers within the reserve from where one can have a glimpse of deer, elephants, gaur, etc. and though the home of several tigers, one has to be extremely lucky to catch sight of them.


Jainti is another picturesque corner of the Reserve. The forest bungalow is strategically located on the river bank offering a grand view of the surrounding hills. Uphill Bhutanghat is flanked by hills draped with verdant forests. The bungalow here overlooks the Raidak river and was built as early as 1904. This is again elephant country and the salt lick beside the river is a great attraction to the animals.


From Rajabhatkhaoa, we toured the Buxa Tiger Reserve and proceeded to Cooch Behar, by road. Once an independent kingdom, it joined British India to avoid being attacked by Bhutan and was consequently absorbed into the Indian Union and merged with West Bengal. Even though the erstwhile glory has diminished to a great extent, Cooch Behar town still preserves its monuments with pride and glamour.


The history of Cooch Behar dates back to the period of the Pala-Sena rulers (11th-12th century AD). Of the ancient remains, mention may be made of the Rajpat of Gossainimari, Siva Temple of Baneswar and the old palace of the Khen dynasty.


But the twin attractions of Cooch Behar are the palace built in 1887 and the temple dedicated to Madanmohan, an incarnation of Lord Krishna.


Noted for its elegance and grandeur, the palace was built by Maharajah Nripendra Narayan. Raised on a basement of 1.5 metres, this double storied building covers an area of 4768 sq. km. Built on the concept of classical European architecture, its frontal facade consists of a series of arches resting by an alternate arrangement of narrow and broad piers to contain single and double Corinthian pilasters respectively. The centrally located Durbar Hall is built to resemble St. Peter's Church of Rome --- dodecagon in shape, resting on four arches supported by massive Corinthian pillars and a lantern on top. After being taken over by the Archaeological Survey of India, the 50-odd rooms are being thoroughly renovated and will probably be turned into a museum. Presently, the entire palace is illuminated and at night takes on the appearance of a fairyland.


Situated in the heart of the town is the temple dedicated to Madanmohan. Near it is a large waterbody called Sagardighi that is the home of many migratory ducks in winter. Interestingly, almost all the old buildings of Cooch Behar deserve to be protected as heritage buildings.

Cooch Behar can also be directly approached from Calcutta by overnight train and bus. Or reached by road from Siliguri. There is no dearth of budget accommodation but those wanting something better can opt for the luxurious Circuit House.


Tangled in the past, the tourism aspect of Cooch Behar seems to be full of promises -- waiting to be discovered by the discerning traveller.



Information


Siliguri is well linked with Calcutta by air, road & rail. There is no dearth of accommodation here.


Accommodation at Buxa Tiger Reserve is limited and advance booking is advised. For more details contact: Field Director, Buxa Tiger Reserve, Alipurduar, West Bengal. Keep allowance for postal delays.


For more details and booking of accommodation at Cooch Behar, contact: West Bengal Tourism, Hill Cart Road, Siliguri Or, Office of the District Magistrate, Cooch Behar, West Bengal.