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A quick sail down West Bengal—from the banks of
its mighty rivers to cloud kissing mountain country and the absorbing
plains.
When Bankim Chandra
Chatterjee composed his famous song, ‘Bandemataram’, over a
hundred years ago in 1882, in many ways he was epitomizing the beauty
of Bengal. Some things here are still eternal. Like the rich culture
of the state that binds the population together through its unique
unity in diversity. Like the matchless geographical variety it offers
to visitors. Like the fact that even today, very few diehard Bengalis
want to accept the fact that the state was divided during partition
and one half of it is now a different country.
West Bengal, situated to
the north-east of the Indian peninsula, is one of the country’s
smaller states. However, it is, in its physical form, a complete
representation of the Indian subcontinent. Darjeeling, its northern
end, lies cuddled in the arms of the mighty Himalayas and the Dooars
in the foothills are rich in forest. The indomitable river Ganga
flows across the State’s rich alluvial plains to reach the Bay
of Bengal in the south, through vast swamps that are known as the
Sundarbans. The districts in the west are semi-arid and sport loamy
soil: the famous red earth that appears again and again in
Rabindranath Tagore’s poems. It was not only the homeland of a
Nobel Laureate but even today, the colourful tribals dwell there and
their culture goes back to prehistoric times. And in the east is
Bangladesh, swirling with rivers and a language and bond that is
common.
Thus, ‘Bandemataram’
is certainly an ethereal description of a state that still reflects
both physical and intellectual pulchritude,
“My Motherland, I sing
Her splendid streams, her glorious trees,
The zephyr from far-off Vindhyan heights,
Her fields of waving corn,
The rapturous radiance of her moonlit nights,
The trees in flower that flame afar…
Her strength let no man scorn.”
The tide of Indian
history has not left Bengal isolated or insular. Its capital city,
Calcutta is just over 300 years old but interfacing with conquerors
from within and without has given the State many diverse visages. The
tribal belt has data that is existing in times antedating written
history. There is, in many parts, a vast impression left by Muslim
vanquishers. Yet, in others like Nadia, the bhakti movement,
rebelling against strict Hindu laws, found its niche. Through the
length and breadth of the state you can discover in a nutshell the
splendour of Indian art, architecture, crafts, music, theatre, dance
and spectacular physical features.
When Chinese travellers
and scholars crossed the awesome Himalayan ranges to India during the
reign of powerful Hindu monarches like Ashoka or Harshavardhana in
the 7th century, Bengal was on their beat! When, years
later, the Mughals began their expansion projects, once again Bengal
was on their chart! Then, when the Portuguese, Dutch, French and the
English tramped into the country, Bengal charmed them into settling
down on her riverbanks and begin trading!
For witnessing the sheer
magnificence of mountains, unsullied and pristine, you have to visit
the hill state of Darjeeling, 7,000 feet above sea level. Even as you
drive up the curvaceous roads or take the famous toy train to your
distination, you will be awestruck by the resplendence of nature.
From the humid plains, you suddenly fill your tired lungs with fresh
mountain air. Gurgling streams rush past and in springtime, the
ranges are flaming with rhododendrons. The ethnic population is
friendly and the influence of Buddhism is strong. Past the Batasia
loop, past the Ghoom Buddhist monastery, past the lush tea gardens,
you finally arrive in a quaint town with slanting red roofs among the
recent upsurge of concrete, peeping at you from behind lofty pines.
Darjeeling is famous for its flavoured tea all over the world. The
brew is often compared to champagne and the tea-gardens that dot the
slopes are witness to this mammoth industry. The Himalayan
Mountaineering Institute is a paradise for treekers. You can, if you
wish, go on short or long treks, depending on your stamina and
enthusiasm, with help from the Institute’s staff. The Tibetan
Self-Help Centre has a range of carpets for sale in their showroom,
woven with dexterity on the premises by refugees who fled their land
with the Dalai Lama. Take a look if not a pick. Also remember to
visit the Padmaja Naidu Himalayan Zoological Park and in case it is
the ‘season’ and you are an untested racing freak, go to
India’s stupendous race-course in Lebong, nestled high in the
mountains.
You could also take short
trips to Mirik, land of oranges, and the charming city of Kalimpong,
famous for its orchids and curio shops. In the same area is Kurseong
from where you can get a panoramic view of the Gangetic delta from
Eagles Crag and once you hit the foothills again, stop over at
Malbazar to imbibe the magical mystery of forests and the tea-garden
dotted Dooar plains. The Jaldapara Wildlife Sanctuary here could
bring you face to face with wild elephants and other ferocious
animals.
In the heartland of
Bengal’s rich history is Malda. Here, in the 14th and
15th century, Bengal’s capital cities of Gour and
Pandua held sway. You can witness the relics of Muslim culture
embodied in the Bara Sona mosque. Firoz Minor and the tomb of Taz
Khan or visit the Hindu Eklakshi Mausoleum that still stands in
silent witness to the ancient days of the Pala kings. Not very far is
Behrampur, another cradle of Bengal’s Muslim past. The
Hazarduari Palace and the Khush Bagh revive memories of days gone by.
From Behrampur you can also visit the Cossimbazar Palace.
Shantiniketan, Tagore’s
university township, is a must on any itinerary that plots Bengal as
a stopover. Just two and a half hours away by rail from Calcutta,
this town in the Birbhum district is rich in culture and art. At
Tagore’s residence in the Uttarayan complex you could visit the
museum and his various homes. From Shantiniketan you could also take
a sojourn to Bakreswar, where ancient kali and Shiva temples rise
into the azure sky. The Hot Springs are famous for curing many
chronic diseases.
Certainly, the villages
outside Shantiniketan are rich in tribal folklore. This is
traditionally known as the Santhal belt and in many small pockets,
life continues to adhere to a natural system. Civilization has made
but partial inroads into the life of these people. Quaint legends and
myths form the core of village names. For instance, about 20
kilometres away from Bolpur near Shantiniketan is a lush little
hamlet called Sarpalehona, deriving its identity from the snake
goddess who was married to Garuda, a mythical bird from the Ramayana.
Another ancient Hindu
town is Vishnupur, made accessible now for international traffic that
arrives to witness the priceless terracotta temples dotting the
landscape.Essentially Vaishnavite in flavour, these temples have
stories carved on their panels from the life of Krishna. The
workmanship is detailed and graphically represented. The Shyam-Rai
and the Radha-Madhav temples are the most elegant.
History, myth and legend
form indeed, the heartbeat of many places in Bengal. In Krishnagar,
you will not only find the famous clay dolls but also the
intoxication of Krishna followers. At Shantipur, the looms hum late
into the night, spinning out Bengal’s lovely handloom saris. In
Durgapur, on the other hand, you see the face of modern Bengal, where
giant industrial factories of fertilizer and steel introduce you to
current times. However, Durgeshnandini, and ancient feminist queen,
had her kingdom nestled in this region during the middle ages.
If you go to the coastal
town of Digha, you will stumble upon a charming casuarina girdled
beach, unspoilt in many parts and laced with virgin sand. Here, the
fable of goddess Kali reigns supreme in the Kapal Kundal temple.
However, for a memorable experience, catch a lunch to Sajnekhali, the
larges estuarine forest in the world and the abode of the famous
Royal Bengal tiger.
Whether you visit the
hills of the Sunderban swamps, whether your interest lies in
historical facts or ancient myths, whether you are looking for arts,
crafts, textiles or projects to set up industries, West Bengal offers
you unlimited choices. Beyond the bustle of Calcutta, its capital,
there are many other cities and towns you can visit at leisure. And
you are bound to be thrilled by its antiquity or historical
importance. It was in Burdwan that Noor Jahan, the exquisite Mughal
consort of Jehangir, spent part of her life. It was in Nawadwip that
Shri Gauranga began his fight against old and rigid Hindu laws and
lost his heart to Nandgopal of Vrindaban. It was in Kamarpukur that
Ramakrishna Paramashansa was born. It was in Plassey that Robert
Clive fought a gruesome battle to defeat Siraj-ud-daula and establish
British dominance in the state. These are stray examples. Bengal does
have a many-splendoured countenance. It is up to you to discover it.
As Bankimchandra rightly sang:
‘Unequalled, tender, happy, pure
Of splendid streams, of glorious trees
My Motherland I sing.
The stainless charms that e’er endure
And verdant banks and wholesome breeze,
That with her praises ring!”
MOUNTAIN RUNNING IN DARJEELING
India has become the
first Asian country where mountain running is being organized. The
multi-day stage race ‘Himalayan Run and Trek’ organized by
an American runner Jim Crosswhite and an Indian mountaineer, Chander
Shekhar Pandey, evoked tremendous response. On a sunny day in last
October, 40 runners from over ten countries were flown to Darjeeling
from Delhi and Calcutta, or brought by road from Kathmandu.
The five-day 100 mile
Stage Race began at dawn in the small village Manebhanjyang, about an
hour’s bus ride from Darjeeling. The village itself, at an
altitude of 7,000 feet, is surrounded by the snow capped peaks of the
Himalayas.
The first night’s
destination, Sandakphu 30 kilometres away, was reached after
traversing a twisting cobbled path. This trail is said to have been
made on the orders of the Nizam of Hyderabad who wished to have a
view of the mountain range from here. At the end of the first day’s
run the runners had ascended to a height of 12,000 feet. Such was the
exhaustion that everybody was in bed by six in the evening. Bill
Antholine, a 24 year old runner from the USA, was the first to finish
the day’s race while an Italian, Mario Malerba was trailing in
second place.
The second day of the
race, spanning a distance of 27 miles, provided the runners with
impressive high altitude scenery. While the first two days were
relatively tedious for the runners, the third day saw them going
downhill to 7,500 feet and the fourth day’s run of 15 miles
length was entirely on paved road. Finally, on the fifth day, the
Italian runner, Mario Malerba, came home a winner as the race ended
at Manebhanjyang—the place of its origin.
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