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The Train for All-Weekends


Weekened travellers can stop battling with their twenty year old car, (unwilling to declare it vintage) and the heavy vehicles on the highway, with the coming of the Shatabdi. I have actually been enjoying the Shatabadi quite a bit. Though it was introduced s early as 1989 and I was invited on its first trail run, I did not pay much attention because the travel bug had not bitten me then. A few years later, my sister was visiting us and she wanted to see the Taj Mahal. As the had of the house, I was expected to provide a luxury car or some such thing and my wife looked at me challengingly while my sister took it or granted. Both the reactions disturbed me and I went for a walk.


One sleepless night and many a promise later, the possibility of traveling by the Shatabdi occurred to me. Quietly, without disclosing the idea, I decided to find out more about it. It cost Rs.390/- by airconditioned chair car and we could get breakfast on the train. It left the New Delhi railway station at 6 a.m. in the morning and reached Agra cantonment two hours late. I could not have found something better. I quickly did some arithmetic and found it was not so much more expensive than road travel and definitely more comfortable than having to drive my doge but rather outdated car and listen to my wife telling my sister on how we planned to change the car so many times over and this Shatabdi was actually heading towards Bhopal. It reached Bhopal at two in the afternoon. I got a brilliant idea. Why not we travel to Agra the first day, go to Bhopal the next on the same Shatabdi and on our return break our journey at Gwalior. This way I would have taken my sister, and of course my wife, to three destinations and would be able to pack it all into four days. And most importantly with no risk to my male-ness as I would not have to drive long hours and yet show no signs of fatigue!


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When I made the announcement at home, my wife looked at me as though to say it was a good idea that Eve tempted Adam to bite into the apple. I became nervous all over again and studied my aging shoes. A prayer moved my lips and a worry ate my insides, how would we travel within Agra or Bhopal?


Anyway my wife and sister were too busy packing their yellow suits that would look, just deadly in Mughal Agra and the snacks just in case they feel hungry, to worry about their onward travel.


The train was dot on time. It was a wonderful journey. Shatabdi was really super fast. The next day when I congratulated the train driver at Bhopal, he told me it traveled at 110 km per hour. Having never traveled in the Superfast trains of Japan or the TGV of France, this was a nice experience for me (and saw the birth of the desire to travel in faster trains!)


But coming back to our holiday to see Shahjahan’s signature of love, there are tourism agents in the Shatabdi itself who ask you how you would like to travel within the city you are heading for. I booked a taxi in Agra, even while in the train. We were five of us and so it was fine. But if you are on or two, remember the taxi will not leave unless it collects five or even six travellers. If you want it to ply just for you, then the charges are high. Since we were a good number, it worked out well for us. The problem when I say that you may have to wait for co-travellers is tat often one has to wait for the Taj Express that arrives almost one and a half hours later. Most buses depart only after that and so the extra time that you have gained is wasted. So check before you book a bus ticket or a seat in the taxi as to when it plans to lave the station.


If you want to return the same day from Agra, I would definitely recommend the Shatabdi for the return journey too. It leaves at 6.25 p.m. and it is tough to finish your sight seeing within the hours at your disposal, but the benefits are greater. The biggest gain is that you get your dinner on the train, so there is no problem after you reach home close to midnight (the train reaches New Delhi station at 10.30 p.m.) to look for or worse pitch in, while the wife wears the harassed look and dishes out something. Secondly you get tired anyway, after all that walking in the fort and at the Mahal, so either leave the next day or return by the Shatabdi the same night.


That piece of advice given, let me get on with my story. The next day morning we boarded the same Shatabdi and went on to Bhopal. We had an aunt in Bhopal and my family was thrilled to meet her. The following day we left at 2.40 p.m. for Gwalior. That cost us Rs.545 per ticket. I am skipping the details of our stay in Gwalior and describing the gorgeous fort there. The next day we left Gwalior at about seven in the evening and reached Delhi an hour before midnight.


My sister decided to ask for another trip and I know for certain it was my wife who had egged her on. We left for Jaipur the next weekend. We left early in the morning and after a four hour journey reached the Pink City. It was a lovely trip, untiring, short and comfortable. But we made one mistake. Id did not check up on the return Shatabdi and found to our dismay that the Shatabdi does not operate on Sundays on this route. So that is factor one should always check up. Not all Shatabdis operate on all days. The one to Bhopal operates everyday.


After this experience, I have traveled on almost every Shatabdi. Yes, indeed, the wife too goes with me and she in fact almost believes that I started the Shatabdi service. Some things are better left the way they are and I do not get into an argument with her on that.


With Delhi as our base we have traveled to many places nearby like Hardwar, Lucknow and Chandigarh. Journeys to hill stations have become very comfortable because the Shatabdi takes you to the base and from there you can hire a taxi. For instance, we went to Kalka and from there took the toy train to Shimla. We have stopped going to the holy cities of Hardwar and Rishikesh by car, we only take this train and it costs less than Rs.500 per person.


With Ahmedabad as our base, we have gone to Surat, the capital of textiles, Vadodara, Anand, the city of dairy products and Baruch and Vapi. With Mumbai as the base we have gone to Lonavala and Pune. With Chennai as the base we have gone to Bangalore and Coimbatore. From Coimbatore we went onwards to the Nilgiri hills on the Blue Mountain toy train.


I could go on of our sojourns from Calcutta too, but the editor would perhaps then hand you a time table next time and not ask me to do a piece!