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I woke to the plaintive
calls of koels. When the birds were not calling, in the stillness of
the morning, I could hear the rush of water. I came out of my room
and stood by the river, now in spate, just a few metres from the door
step. Upstream, through the mist, I could make out the outlines of
the battlements of a fort. This is Srirangapattana, a fascinating
river island that holds many experiences to revitalize the jaded
nerves of a city dweller.
For those who are turned
on by history, there are many monuments here spanning a thousand
years. For the naturalist and those contemplative ones who seek
quiet spots, this island is a delight. And for the devotees, there
are temples, mosques, a church and a Jain basdi, all in an area of
about five kilometres long and two kilometres wide. You could hire
an autorickshaw and go around and if you have the time walk around.
Srirangapattana, 140
kilometres from Bangalore and 15 kilometres from Mysore, is the
biggest of the three islands, there is a temple of Ranganatha, in the
sanctum of which is Vishnu in the posture of his cosmic sleep. In
fact this island derives its name from the deity of the temple
located on the western side. All the dynasties of whose kingdom this
island had formed a part, have left their relics and monuments here –
the Horysalas of 11th century, the Vijayanagar kings of
Chanidragiri in 17th century, the Hyder Ali-Tipu Sultan
clan that came after them and lastly the French and the British.
In the second half of the
18th century, the French and the British were locked in a
death grapple in the Carnatic trying to get a foothold.
Srirangapattana was the main scene of action. And among the dramatis
personae there was one who stood taller than all the rest, Tipu
Sultan. But prejudices of British historians and later some Indian
historians have combined to blur his historical profile. Tipu
reigned for 17 years, an eventful period, full of marches and
battles. He kept pushing the frontiers of his kingdom and by 1787
had established his supremacy over much of Carnatic. But Wellesley’s
arrival on the scene changed thepicture. Determined to destroy the
sultan he sent a 21000 strong force under General Harris. In a short
and swift battle, the fort was stormed on the 4th of May
1799. After the battle Tipu’ body was found near one of the
gates.
I started from this spot
and went towards his tomb. Tipu lies buried beside his father in the
tomb Gumad-e-Ala. I was there early morning and there were very few
visitors. The slanting rays of the sun hit the pillars of black
hornblende that support the dome of this square structure. Intricate
stucco work adorns the mausoleum. The three doors made of ebony and
inlaid with ivory were gifted by Lord Dalhousie.
Just outside this
monument, on the road leading to the river, I noticed two interesting
structures, on either side of the road, with typical Islamic domes on
top. Hyder and Tipu were keen on racing pigeons and these are lofts
for the birds. Similar lofts can be seen in Lallbagh in Bangalore
also, a garden which was laid by Hyder Ali.
If you are interested in
military architecture, take a walk along the fortress walls. This
fort is defended by a double wall with turest projections. It was
built in 1454 by Thimmanna, a local chief and was later renovated by
Hyder and Tipu. The river Kaveri skirts one side of the fort forming
a natural moat, fed by water from the river. The original bridge
which was the only link with the fort, now called Wellesley Bridge,
is still in use. The breach on the fort wall made by the British
forces, which brought down the Sultan, can still be seen near the
bridge. The fort has four gates and along the battlements there are
two dungeons in which prisoners of war were kept. Tipu’s
residence, the Lalmahal, was razed to the ground. Now it is just a
mound marked by a notice board, reminding one of the lines of Omar
Khayyam
The lion and the lizard
keep the forts where Jamshyad gloried and drank deep.
Outside the fort, across
the main road, is a garden in the centre of which stands Tipu’s
summer palace. The garden is called Darya Daulat Bagh (the garden of
the wealth of the sea). The most interesting feature of this palace
is the series of murals which depict scenes from Tipu’s military
career, particularly the battle of Pollilur (near Kancheepuram in
Madras) in which he crushed the British forces under Colonel Bailey.
The kings who owed allegiance to Tipu are also featured in these
paintings. This lavishly ornamented building now houses a museum of
Tipu memorabilia.
Not far from this palace,
is a church distinctly European in style. As I pushed the gates and
went in, a Carmelite nun welcomed me. Not many visitors come to this
monument. It is a church built by Abbe dubois, the French ascetic
mkissionary, better known as the author of Hindu Manners, Customs and
Ceremonies. There is a house in the corner of this compound which is
contemporaneous with the church. A stone plaque announces that
Dubois lived in this house form 1801 to 1821. Evidently it was here
that he wrote the book.
Monuments of the British
are spread all over the island. On a high point opposite the summer
palace is a tall pillar put up to honour the memory of British
officers who died during the siege of Srirangapattana. The garrison
cemetery close by contains many interesting epitaphs to the British
who died between 1800 to 1872. Near Tipu’s tomb, by the
roadside stands the grave of Colonel Bailey, an interesting
combination of saracenic and colonial architecture. General Harris,
who defeated Tipu in 1799, was so fascinated by this island that he
built a bungalow here and lived in it for many years. This typical
Raj style house is still in good repair and is used as a travellers’
bungalow. An inscription on the wall commemorates the stay of the
General here.
If you are an amateur
naturalist, the river side here is the spot for you. Ranganthittu
Bird Sanctuary, about three kilometres upstream, is the breeding
ground for thousands of waterfowl, during June to November. Many of
them feed in the river around the island. At any point you can spot
some of these birds in the river. I saw cormorants, shags, white
ibis, egrets and open-bill storks. Along the river you could see
spot-billed ducks, varieties of kingfishers and river-terns. If you
are lucky you could spot rarities like the whistling teal also.
Large fruit-bats, also called flying-foxes, roost on the trees along
the bank during the day and set out in the evenings. Old timers on
the island told me that earlier one could see crocodile near the fort
but now these reptiles can be see only near the bird sanctuary.
River Kaveri which
divides itself to form the island, rejoins on the western side and
this spot is looked upon as sacred. Prayers and pujas are on.
You could hire a coracle here for a few rupees and cross over to a
small village on the other side. Resist the temptation to swim here,
though it is inviting, it can be dangerous. There are quite spots
where you could spend an evening along the river, the best is Gosai
Ghat. The lone electric lamp post is the only reminder of the 20th
century. But for that, you could be a thousand years back. Go there
are spend h ours watching the river flow by, in an ambience where
time seems to have stopped.
While the British forces
had plundered the city after the final battle, destroyed Tipu’s
palace and fort, they left the religious structures intact. The
temple of Shri Ranganatha is a blend of Hoysala and Vijayanagar
wooden temple chariot parked in front of the main gate of the temple.
This shrine attracts thousands of devotees. The Jain basdi,
dedicated to Adinatha, houses images of all the 24 tirthankaras. The
Jama Masjid, built by Tipu has two minarets which dominate the
landscape for miles around.
If you want to have a
complete view of the island, one of the most eventful theartres of
Indian history, go up to Karighatta Hill, about five kilometres away
and you will get a good view of the lie of the land. There is a
small temple on top and the priest would come and tell you that it
was on this hill that the British had placed their cannons during the
siege of Srirangapattana.
VISITING SRIRANGAPATTANA
GETTING THERE
By Air
Nearest airport is
Bangalore, 140 kilometres away.
By Rail
There is a railway
station at Srirangapattana itself. There are three fast trains daily
from Bangalore.
By Road
The island is on the
Bangalore-Mysore road, 140 kilometres from Bangalore and 15
kilometres from Mysore. The Karnataka State Road Transport
Corporation buses ply between Bangalore and Mysore very frequently.
Motoring from Bangalore should take about 2 ½ hours.
PLACES TO VISIT
Ranganathittu Bird
Sancturary Three kilometres from the island. Opens at 8 a.m. and
closes at 6 p.m. Boats are available to go on the river. Mornings
and evenings are the best times to visit.
Brindavan Gardens and
Krisharaja Sagar Dam
Built across the river
Kaveri. 16 kilometres away. Take the Hunsur road for this place.
On Saturdays and Sundays, the garden is illuminatd.
Somnathapur
32 kilometres. A Hoysala
tempe dedicated to Lord Kesava. It is well known for its elaborate
carvings and miniature sculptures.
Talakad
48 kilometres. The
capital of the Ganga dynasty. The temple of Vaideshwara located
amidst sand dunes is on the banks of River Kaveri.
Melkote temple town
35 kilometres.
Headquarters of vaishnava Saint, Shri Ramanuja and the centre of Shri
Vaishnava sect. The Sanskrit Academy is located here. The Melkote
Wolf Sanctuary is just a kilometre from the town.
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