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The people of
Mandi proudly boast that while Kashi (Benaras) has only 80 temples,
mandi has 81! And it is no idle boast. J.C. French supported their
assertion when he described the town as a miniature Benaras with
innumerable temples, old houses, long flights of steps, the streets
steep and winding and the market place with an aura of medieval
picturesqueness. In 1919 one tourist actually counted 49 places of
worship in Mandi. Built of rought stone in a shikara (houseboat)
style they could be seen all over the town on the right and left of
the Beas.
The town’s
antiquity is established by the Triloknath temple which was built
around 1520 A.D. Mandi seems to have derived its name from the
Sanskrit word ‘Mandoika’ meaning an open hall or shed. It
was also well-known to the Tibetans who called it Zahor.
On a high ground is
situated the temple of Shyama Kali also known as Tarna Devi. It is
dedicated to the consort of Lord Shiva. According to Hindu
philosophy a woman has two sides to her nature, one extremely tender
and the other highly ferocious. In this temple the divine consort of
Lord Shiva is depicted as Kali or Shakti full of fury. The legend
goes that once the goddness started dancing. The dance began slowly
but gradually the tempo increased and reached a peak of frenzy. In
her ecstasy, her movements which were delicate and graceful at the
start, became wild and terrifying like the tremors of an earthquake.
The earth shook and vibrated under the impact of her movements.
Panicstricken, people ran to Shiva for help. He obliged them by
lying down in her path. Kali stepped on Shiva’s prostrate
figure but as soon as she realized who it was, she stopped in her
tracks. The idol depicts her in the rudra roop or the fearsome form
with a garland of human skulls and protruding tongue.
With a rich legacy of
venerated temples, it is natural that religious festivals like
Janamashtami and Shivratri are celebrated at Mandir with much
fervour. Janamashtami, the birthday of Lord Krishna, is observed as
a state function with perfect decorum. The main ceremony takes place
in the temple of Madho Raj. The idol of the child Krishna is placed
in a small cradle covered with gold brocade and suspended from the
rafters by silken cords. The Raja himself, who arrives in procession
followed by his nobles and officials, decks up the idol with flowers,
anoints it, placing his offering of fruits and sweets at the altar to
the accompaniment of devotional music provided by Conch shells,
temples bells and massive drums called nagaras.
By far the most
important religious festival is Mahashivratri when the village
deities are carried to Mandi to the temple of Baba Bhootnath. This
temple is dedicated to Lord Shiva. From far-flung villages these
deities are brought in richly decorated palanquins swaying on the
shoulders of the devotees to the singing of devotional songs and
blowing of conch shells. The devotees believe that at the time of
drought, water drawn from the Beas and poured on the idol of Baba
Bhootnath, brings rain by the time the poured water drains back in to
the Beas. The Shivratri fair lasts for about eight days and is
inaugurated by the Chief Minister of Himachal Pradesh. The
palanquins with the deities are assembled in the main ground of
Mandi. The people in their multicoloured robes and skull caps present
a glorious sight against the backdrop of the Dhaulagiri hills. So
much colour and gaiety can only be withnessed either at Mandi or at
Kulu during Dussehra in October.
Mandi district comprises
of two princely states of Mandi and Suket. The district takes its
name from the principal town Mandi in keeping with the general
pattern of the hill states. Situated on the left bank of the river
Beas, Mandi town is almost in the center of Himachal Pradesh in the
foothills of the Shivalik ranges. At one time the former state of
Mandi had an imposing array of forts, 360 in all. However, time has
taken irts toll and now only about 10 are left.
Sati pillars called
barselas in the local dialect are erected on the left bank of
the Suketi bridge. These stone pillar six to seven feet high are
erected in the memory of the deceased rulers of Mandi. When one died
it was required by custom to put up such a pillar to perpetuate his
memory. His likeness was chiseled on the pillar with his name, date
of death along with the names of his wives, concubines and slave
girls who perished on his funeral pyre to provide him company in
distant world.
The most conspicuous
monument is the palace of the Raja of Mandi which stands in the
southern part of the town and presents a number of tall white
buildings, with roofs life those of the Chinese pagoda.
About 25 kilometres from
Mandi town and 6000 feet above sea level on the crest of Sikandhar
Dhar is the Rewalsar Lake, a plac of Pilgrimage. The lake is dottd
with seven huge masses of needs which give the appearance of small
floating islands when the breeze is strong. There are three shrines
by the lake, a Buddhist monastery, a temple and a gurudwara (a sikh
temple).
It was at Rewalsar that
the Buddhist monk Padma Sambhava preached the message of the
Englishtened One and made a substantial contribution towards the
spread of Buddhism in the region, carrying it as far as Tibet. During
winter Buddhist from Tibet would come down in large numbers on
pilgrimage to the holy Rewalslar. They would approach the lake
crawling on their hands and feet as a mark of humility and penance.
This has now become a part of the ritual of paying obeisance to the
sacred lake.
Once when the tenth guru
of the Sikhs was on a visit to Mandi, the king of Mandi invited him
to stay at the royal palace. The guru accepted the invitation to
stay in Mandi but not with the king. He put up outside the town in a
secluded place which had once been the hermitage of a rishi (sage).
The guru, touched by the king’s devotion prohesised that Mandi
would ever remain safe and if any enemy tried to hard it bolts from
heaven would crush the invaders. A gurudwara at Rewalsar, was built
in memory of the historic visit with a trip to Bagij a small village
about 35 kilometres from Mandi and 600 feet above sea level. A steep
trek uphill of about 3500 feet from here brings you to Parashar Lake.
An ancient temple built in pagoda style stands here. A trek to this
place can be tricky in the wrong season as the place is quite
desolate. However I was awarded with a beautiful sight of the temple
and the snow covered lake, Dhauladhar and the Pin Parbati ranges
towering majestically over them.
VISITING MANDI GETTING
THERE
By Air
Bhuntar Airport is the
nearest, 63 kilometres (flight from Delhi via Chandigarh).
By Rail
Nearest station is
Kiratpur 125 kilometres away.
By Road
Approachable by road
via Chandigarh (200 kilometres), Pathankot (205 kilometres), Shimla
(165 kilometres), Kulu (71 kilometres), Delhi (465 kilometres) and
Manali (107 kilometres).
Himachal Pradesh
Tourism Development Corporation runs deluxe buses form Mandi to
Manali, Kulu, Chandigarh, Shimla and Delhi.
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