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Rising majestically over the rocky and rugged
terrain is one of Rajasthan’s finest forts-the Mehrangarh Fort.
It looks down protectively over the fascinating city of Jodhpur.
It was the scene of just
another city in India. Humanity in a hurry, rushing around the busy
streets. Rows of autorickshaws stood outside the railway station in
ragged lines. Spasmodically, they would take off, to whiz past-a
streak of yellow on lack. Pavement hawkers. Shops. Many shops.
Stocking all the unending urban wants. Traffic constable Lakhan
Singh, neatly dressed in white, was officiously perched in the middle
of the bustling square, against the bright backdrop of box-office
bill boards. It was typical…But wait! There looming up from
behind emerged the difference. Magnificent Mehrangarh-one of
Rajasthan’s finest forts, looking down protectively over the
city, from the hilltop.
One could drive up, but I
chose and recommend the walk. With a sweatbrow, in the hot mid-day
sun, I trudged up the beaten short-cut track from the city. My
polluted and unexercised city lungs, made me stop many a time to
wheeze a gasp. It wasn’t so steep but was I in bad shape!
Climbing and swerving past small huts, the fort kept getting bigger
and higher in my esteem. The sheer rock face from where emerged the
tall and massive sandstone wall of Mehrangarh, looked awesome indeed.
At last I reached the
mammoth gates of the fort. A bearded Jodhpur resident, dressed in
traditional threads, complete with turban, sword, shield and hookah,
sat posed in his regality to welcome the tourists. A couple of local
musicians struck up a local tune. I bought the requisite tickets and
set off to explore the palaces, hallways and set off to explore the
palaces, hallways and courtyards of Mehrangarh.
It was a royal treat, as
I ambled past the carefully preserved regalia and regal artifacts.
Phool Mahal, Sukh Mahal, Moti Mahal. Exquisitely decorated ceilings
and walls, with delicate lattice work on the windows. Large and
unusual wooden statues, painted bright, adorned a palace section
amongst an assortment of princely cradles. It was a labrynth of
wonders, not knowing what the next doorway might lead to.
Through the various
avenues and routes of this sprawled complex, I found myself on the
fort roof, overlooking the entire city of Jodhpur, from over rows of
medieval cannons. What a commanding view! The thousands of white
houses were chequered with ones painted blue. Traditionally, the
Brahmins used to live there. Eventually, when I walked out of the
cannon ball scarred Jayapol (Victory Gate) I was reeling from the
15th century experience of Mehrangarh fort…. But
there was more to come. Just down the road, I was to discover the
beauty of Jaswant Thada.
Red sandstone stairs led
up to the chess-board checked courtyard of the neat white marble
cenotaph. Dedicated to Maharaja jaswant, this memorial was built in
1899. Inside, the reverent ambience was framed with several portraits
of Jodhpur royalty. Scores of pigeons flew into may wide angle lens,
as I admired the peaked structure from the outside. Rather precise
trellis work and excellent carving. From the mass confusion of
buildings in the city spread below me, I could see the distant
outlines of the Umaid Bhavan Palace. I aligned my sights and made
tracks for it.
Worry this section is
only for our guests. I’m afraid you cannot go up these steps
(they lead to the Maharaja’s suite). No! Not even to take a
photograph. Your friend is not properly dressed. John Langford is not
allowed here wearing a green kameez, white dhoti an Rajasthani
jootis, offset with 35mm sir around his neck. The beautiful
corridors, staircases and hallways preserve in near entirety, roused
the curiosity of my adventurous spirit. This was to not much avail
since the Umaid Bhavan was now a privately owned five star hotel.
A wonderful palace of
beige sandstone, built by Maharaja Umaid Singh in 1928 and designed
by the President of the British Royal Institute of Architects. A
blend of several styles, merging pleasantly. All the trappings of Raj
influence, pre-independence royal living were present. Royal
auditorium ballrooms, huge dinning-room, guilded royal furniture,
majestic tiger and deer skins on the walls of a gloomy library of old
books, crystal chandeliers, stained glass windows, liveried
manservants and doormen, swimming pool in basement, various momentoes
and old photographs. There was so much to see and discover.
Outside the manicured
lush lawn, was splashed with rows of red and white flowering bushes.
From the expanse of green grass, the huge central dome of Umaid
Bhavan emerged most prominent, with the four corners peaked into
columned minarets. Glowing in the late afternoon sun, this was
another royal treasure of Rajasthan.
Before the foundation of
Jodhpur was laid, Mandore was the established capital of the old
Marwar Kingdom. I had the opportunity to visit here, when I was
driving through Jodhpur in my old four wheel-drive jalopy. Just nine
kilometers away, Mandore was a fascinating complex of sprawling
gardens, massive cenotaphs, temples, ruins and sculpture. The several
cenotaphs in memory of the Jodhpur Maharajas were intricately carved,
peaked, temple-like structures, with entirely sculpted facades. Gods,
goddesses, animals, lotuses, adorned the walls ad pillars of old
yellow sandstone. The largest and most noteworthy cenotaph was
dedicated to maharaja Ajit Singh.
In a hall were relief
sculptures of various deities and rulers, coloured bright and mounted
on horses. In little corners of temples were rows of beautiful old
tiles, excellent ceramic art. Some depicting Lord Rama or Lord
Krishna. Then of course, there amongst the temples, figurettes and
landscaped vegetation, were the brightly dressed Rajasthani people.
The men, proud in their moustaches and turbans, with the ladies in
shocking pink or green viels, wandered about in groups, admiring
their heritage. They lent a gaiety to the pleasant late afternoon.
By the time I left
Mandore it was after sundown. Driving back to my hotel was like being
revved vack into reality. As I inched forward in the chaotic traffic,
an autorickshaw whizzed past, missing my left fender by half a
millimeter, causing me to stand on my brakes. My senses were
absorbing the cycles, humanity on foot, glaring headlights of the
oncoming cars and jeeps, blaring horns, hawkers crying out sales
talk. Popular Hindi film songs held forth from a radio somewhere.
Brightly lit shops lined both sides of the road. I noticed that the
footpath dentist with his fantastic collection of dentures, had
closed shop. It was such a trying experience, that I had forgotten I
was in Jodhpur and not in any old over-crowded Indian city!
Then emerged, from the
post sunset darkness, the reminder once again. Mehrangarh. Now
glowing yellow gold against black, with artificial lighting. Shining
like the guiding star. The Orion of Jodhpur…..the sparkle in the
crown.
VISITING JODHPUR
GETTINHG THERE
By Air
Indian Airlines have two
Bombay-Delhi flights and two Delh-Bombay flights that go via Jodhpur.
Vayudoot flights also available to Jodhpur.
By Rail
Superfast trains from
Delhi take 10 hours. Other trains take 16 hours to cover the 626
Kilometres between Delhi and Jodhpur.
By Road
Rajasthan State Roadways
operate buses from the bus stand at Raika Bagh to other cities in
Rajasthan.
LOCAL TRANSPORT
Unmetred taxis are
available on rates fixed by the government. Tourist taxis can be
hired from the tourist office. Auto-rickshaws charge according to
distance. Rates negotiable. Regular city bus service available.
SHOOPPING
A shopper’s
paradise, Jodhpur is famous for embroidered shoes, carved wood,
silver and metalware. The main shopping areas are: Sojati Gate,
Station Road, Tripolia Bazaar, Mochi Bazaar, Khanda Fasla, Lakhara
Bazaar.
Places to see
Mehrangarh fort: Staning
sentinel to the city, the fort houses a palaces intricately decorated
with long carved panels and latticed windows.
Jaswant Thada: Cenotaphs
of the rulers commemorating their acts of bravery.
Umaid Bhawan Palace:
Experience the ambience of royal splendour.
Museum: Exhibits a rich
collection of armoury, textiles, arts and crafts, miniature
paintings, portraits, manuscripts and images of Jain Tirthankaras.
Girdikot and Sardar
Market: Narrow lanes are dotted with tiny shops selling colourful
textiles, handicrafts and jewellery.
Around Jodhpur
Mahamandir Temple: Two
kilometers away on the Mandore Road, is this impressive temple with
84 pillars ornamented with detailed carvings of yogic postures.
Kailana Lake: A charming
picnic spot around a lake, famous for a spectacular view of sunset.
11 kilometres from Jodhpur.
Balsamand Lake and
palace: a summer palace on the embankments of a serene and calm lake.
Seven kilometers away from Jodhpur.
Mandore Garments: Nine
kilometers away are the ruins of the ancient capital of marwar. The
Hill of Heroes which houses 16 gigantic figures carved out of a
single rock, depicting religious and folk deities is worth a visit.
Sardar Samand Lake: A
long drive 55 kilometers through the countryside leads to a
shimmering lake.
Osian: 65 kilometers away
are the ruins of 16 Jain and Hindu temples built between the 8th
and 11th centuries.
Nagaur: Famous for an old
fort and palace with beautiful murals of lores and legends, nagaur is
135 kilometres away from Jodhpur. An annual cattle fair held here in
January/February is rated as one of the best in Asia.
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