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In the desolate beauty of the desert, Jaisalmer
stands tall the proud welcoming visitors to an enchanting world of
fable, colour and history.
The first view of the
Jaisalmer fort, seen from 15 kilometers away, is stunning. In the
early morning the ramparts, bastions and the long stretching walls
dazzle gloriously. The yellow sandstone fortifications look
magnificent. It is one of the most exotic cities of the Orient,
standing in the heart of the desert for centuries, weathering with
fortitude the vicissitudes of fortune and furious onslaughts of
nature. The sudden emergence of the 76 meter high rock in the flat
desert country crowned by the most awe-inspiring fort makes a
majestic sight.
The Bhatti Rajput
chieftain Rawal Jaisal founded the city of Jaisalmer in 1156. Seeking
a more secure capital, the usurper was advised by a saint to build a
castle on the Trikuta hill; it was in fulfillment of Lord Krishna’s
prophecy that a distant scion of his Yadav clan would build a kingdom
here. There was water on the hill, a miracle performed by Krishna to
quench the thirst of Arjuna. The hilltop offered the safest fort
location, dominating and surveying the desert for miles.
The Lunar clan of Bhattis
are Krishna’s descendants, valiant and most feared of the
dessert maraduders, perennially locked in territorial skirmishes with
Jodhpur and Bikaner. One Bhatti scion-Gaj Singh had founded the city
of Ghazni in Afghanistan but ultimately lost it to forces from
Khorasan. Later one of his grandsons reclaimed Ghazni, embraced
Islam, and came to be called Chagattas (Mughals) who under Mahmud
Ghazni came to plunder the land his ancestors between 1000 and 1025
A.D. Again, led by Babar they came to found the Mughal empire in
India.
Jaisalmer lay on the
camel trade route between India and Central Asia, a caravanserai for
traders and earned its share of profits without producing anything of
its own. But the rise of the shipping trade and development of the
Bombay port led to its decline in importance. Jaisalmer suffered a
further fall in fortune when following the partition of the country,
trade routes across the border were sealed. Jaisalmer stood high and
dry. But the two wars with Pakistan revived its strategic importance
once again. National Highways and a railways track, and now an
airstrip have brought Jaisalmer within easy reach of the people,
though it is now much shrone of its romantic aura. The city, where
the camel is the only link between man and his country, is fast
getting modernized, the price paid for being on the international
tourist map.
Jaisalmer fort, the
second oldest in Rajasthan after Chittor commands the desertscape
from its 250 feet high perch on the hill. Three strong walls protect
the citadel. The first buttress wall was constructed by the local
Jain panchayat in the 15th century. Subsequent additions
and fortifications were built by the Rawals. Interestingly some round
shaped stones still kept on the ramparts were used as weapons for
defence against the enemy. The steep cobblestone pathway leading to
the royal palace passes through four gates-Akhai Pole (Ganesh Pole),
Suraj Pole, Bhuta Pole and Hawa Pole. Sharp turns on the road topped
by high defence gateways made it invincible. At the highest point of
the place can be seen an umbrella-Meghadamber symbolic of Krishna.
The fort has five palaces
called Sarvottam Vilas, Akhai Vilas, Gaj Mahal, Rang Mahal and Moti
Mahal-all interconnected behind the seven storied façade.
Small stairs take you from one court to another with superb jail
screens shading interiors from the fierce heat and desert wind. The
grandeur of jharokhas (projected balconies) and the ethereal quality
of jail work has earned the Jasilmer artisan an evitable reputation
for extraordinary excellence in stone workmanship. The honey-coloured
stone appears transformed miraculously into a maze of filigreed
ornamentation. The Rang Mahal built by Mool Raj II has some
exquisite murals painted on arches and spandrels. Music and dances
soirees were held here for royal ladies. From the balconies you get a
terrific view of the mammoth ramparts below guarding the small city.
Balconies at the Gaj Mahal are also breathtaking beautiful, if only
the English Romantic poet John Keats had seen them. The fort contains
one third of the city’s population within the small houses on
the narrow lanes. Many houses provide budget accommodation to
visitors and house curio shops.
Within the fort are the
three most exquisitely sculptured Jain temples dedicated to
Rishabhdevji, Sambhavanathji and the Ashthapadi temple. Their
ornamentation done in the style of the Dilwara temples at Mt. Abu is
simply marvelous. The emerald icon of Mahavira is an unparalleled
gem.
When Jaisal built the
fort was warned by the oracle that the fort would be snacked thrice.
So it was when thousands of women and children embraced
death-immolating themselves. First it was sacked when the Bhattis
found the lure of plundering the Delhi Sultan Ala-ud-din-Khilji’s
royal baggage caravan irresistible. Khilji besieged Jaisalmer fort
for seven years. In the meantime Rattan Singh, son of Rawal Jait
Singh, struck friendship with his adversary Nawab Mehboob Khan. The
unique bound proved lasting. When Jaisalmer was finally conquered,
Rattan Singh’s two sons were handed over to Mehboob Khan for
safe-keeping. The fort was locked and the conquerors left it till
after some time it was reoccupied by two brave Bhattis. This was
around 1295. Again in 1325, the Bhattis invaded the camp of Muhammad
Tuglaq near Ajmer. Jaisalmer was besieged for almost eight years
before it fell. On both the occasions thousands of women committed
jauhar, immolation by fire to escape disgrace. In the 16th
century Rawal Loon Karan made friends with a wily Afghan Amir Ali who
attended court and visited the palace gathering information for a
well planned attack. Amir Ali sent his soldiers disguised as women in
palanquins to the fort. The Bhattis soldiers discovered the
strategem. A fierce battle ensued despite the absence of the greater
part of the army from the fort. Loon Karan himself put his queens
and princesses to the sword and died fighting. The fort would have
been lost but for the providential arrival of the forces which routed
the Afghans. Amir Ali was tied to a cannon head and blown to pieces.
Folk balladeers narrate romantic tales about the Bhatti valour and
courage but recoded history appears silent on many of their legendary
exploits which somehow never included grand invasions or victories.
Yet bloodshed over trifles and music of the clashing swords held the
Bhattis enchanted.
The city of Jaisalmer is
small and can be covered within two hours of leisurely perambulation
through the lanes and by-lanes. You can’t get lost, to be sure.
It is at an unhurried pace that the havelis (houses of rich
merchants) should be seen and admired. These havelis are the pride
of Jaisalmer architecture, aprt of the national heritage. Salem Singh
haveli, at the eastern end of the city, is an Arabian Nights
structure which, like a wild flower, blossoms at the top. As prime
minister to the Rawal Gaj Singh, Salem Singh was known for his
ruthless vengeance on the royality, extreme extortionist measures
driving hordes of people to quit their villages enmasse. He retained
the royal state treasures dictating terms to the Rawal. This soft
spoken, slender built man was a true Machiavellian villain. His
haveli has the most astoundingly superb craftsmanship. The two upper
storeys called rang Mahal and Kanch Mahal had to be demolished to
prevent a possible collapse. Maybe the Nawab saw through Salem
Singh’s scheme to rival the glory of the fort. The surviving
structure has an unsurpassed splendour. Of particular not are rows of
peacocks below the projected arched balconies. This haveli has the
rarest display of excellence.
Near the city center is
the patwon ki haveli, built by Guman Chand Patwa and his five sons,
dealers in brocade, gold and silver embroidery with business
stretching between Afghanistan and China. The five suites built
between 1800 and 1860 are virtually the showpiece of Jaisalmer’s
legendary architectural wealth. The carving on stone far surpasses in
beauty the work on brocade and gold. The balconies are so delicately
chiseled you would stand mesmerized by the splendour of it all,
particularly when viewed early in the morning or in late afternoon.
Oblique sun rays create enchanting and dramatic shadows, highlighting
the carving and infusing a new life of its own. It is the grandest
mansion in Jaisalmer, a veritable museum piece in the open. I am told
that some American intended purchasing it and carting it away piece
by piece. Luckily his plans failed. The owners used it as a Sanskrit
school for fear of the government acquiring the haveli. Mercifully
the interiors were spared the vandalism of the crowds. Today it is
part of the national heritage.
The third haveli belongs
to Nathmal, a later day prime minister who gifted it to the Rawal and
was allowed to retain it. Built by two brothers in 1885, this haveli
has two identical looking portions which are in fact two different
parts united by a common façade. Look for the projected
balconies which seem to emerge from books of poetry. So ethereal, so
charming. The carving never looked better. A perfect example of
jeweller’s art applied to stone carving. The Muslim silavats
(artisans) did a wonderful job here and left a marvelous legacy of
craftsmanship excellent in detail and flawless in conception. If only
for viewing these havelis a trip to Jaisalmer is more than amply
rewarded.
The city of Jaisalmer
today hardly looks the thinly peopled desert city one has heard
about. It is city fully aware of its tourist potential. The countless
number of hotels and restaurants witness an ever increasing number of
visitors to Haisalmer. I met a waiter from the snow bound hills of
Kumaon serving in a small eating house. Kismet (fate) brought me
here, he told me when I enquired about his migration from the
mountain to the parched dry land of the Thar. There were many more
of his neighborhood here making a living. These hotels, many of them
are self-styled palaces, provide the basic tourist amenities and look
after your comforts with a fawning concern. They happily arrange
camel safaris, entertainment at night and shopping-all in the hope of
a small commission.
There are two incidents
however, which may be of some help to the first time visitor. First,
never take a cow standing in your path for a kindly animal. It is
held sacred by Hindus and is quite conscious of the privileges it has
acquired. In fact is arrogantly conscious of its right of way and is
easily offended. As I stood below the Nathmal haveli, a cow attacked
me because I stepped too close to it. And cows are at every corner,
in every street. It is ubiquitous in Jaisalmer, next only to the sand
which is there in your food, in your glass of water, in your socks
and shoes, in your eyes and hair.
THE SHIFTING SANDS
Rajasthan Tourism makes
excellent transport arrangements for visiting the most picturesque
dunes situated about 40 kilometers from the city. No trip to
Jaisalmer is complete without a visit to these fascinating dunes.
Wind-caressed slopes are marked with ripples creating an enchanting
mirage, a visual illusion of extraordinary splendour. The dunes can
be extremely treacherous since they can sink to a few feet the moment
you step over one. Occasionally you can see the dunes shifting with
the strong desert winds-an astonishing feat of nature. Watching
sunrise and sunset on the dunes can become etched on your memory-such
an unforgettable spectacle with the great ball of light rising from
behind the low hills of sand amid a perfectly still scene. A
mysterious silence prevails.
The dunes of Sam provide
the setting for the prestigious cultural programmes arranged by RTDC.
Under the magic of the full moon the landscape lies bathed in a
celestial light. On a make-shift stage the folk singers begin the
programme and within minutes the atmosphere is charged with magic of
musical strains on instruments typical of the desert. Choisest
artistes of international repute are selected for performance here.
The soul of the desert bares itself to the visitor, with enchanting
folk music sung by professionals-Lungas, Manganiyars. Captivating
vigorous dances like Ghair, Dhap, Chari, Moria, Ghoomar and the
Terehtal are an absolute delight. The exquisite and flawless
performances draw rounds of ceaseless applause. But when the
presentation by the kalbelia dancers is announced it is a thunderous
and wild ovation in advance. This stunning dance by astoundingly
agile young girls (dressed in long black skirts, blouses and
odhnis-all embroidered with a fringe of silver lining)-dance to an
electrifying rhythm with incredible gusto. The Kalbelia dancers have
earned rave reviews whenever they have performed. Likened frequently
to the Egyptian belly dancers, these snake charmers can charm anyone.
The movement, the rhythm, and the perfection are captivating.
Rajasthan Tourism
organizes some cultural programmes on a large scale at the local
Poonam Stadium, just below the fort. The setting is majestic and the
crowd overwhelming. Crowds gather in large numbers, so make sure you
are sitting in a strategic position to watch. The parade of the
gaily caparisoned camels is spectacular. Much more enthralling is the
Rajasthani turban in dazzling bright hues-yellow, orange, pink and
red, smartly tied around the crown to form a perfect headgear which
the most athletic dance movements would fail to dislodge from the
head. The Ghair dancers with short white jackets and huge skirts
gathered at the back look elegant and charming. Camel rides,
acrobatic camel races, camel décor competition, tug of war,
turban tying competition and a prize for the most impressive
moustaches-there is something to interest everyone.
The Jaisalmer Desert
Festival will be held from the 5th to 7th
February, 1993.
CAMEL SAFARI
RTDC arranges excellent
and well managed safaris through the safer routes for those
adventurous souls who care to get the real feel of the desert. A
three to four days trip from Jodhpur to Jaisalmer to Sam, and to
Bikaner are the most familiar routes. It is a romantic, though trying
way of exploring the desert interiors-vast stretches of sand,
deserted and haunted villages, and inhabited villages. Book through
RTDC preferably. In Jaisalmer almost every hotel owner offers to
arrange your safari trip. Whether in groups or alone carry your
water bottle, large panama hats and creams to prevent sunburns.
Camels are used to carry your luggage, tent, foodstuff and cooking
utensils and the owner accompanies you sometimes with his young son.
So you have enough company. The language is never a problem. They
know how to communicate with you. Don’t be put off by his
non-stop chatter which is only a way to keep you pleased and your
mind off the blistering heat.
Night camping under the
open starry sky can be an extremely romantic idea. The camel driver
would happily cook for you, make you comfortable in the tent an
relate romantic tales. Be a gullible listener to ward off boredom.
Maybe some vagrant group of balladeers and musicians find you. For a
small tip they can be excellent company. Try to catch up on lost
sleep. The day long rocking motion on camel back would take its toll:
sore bottoms, still joints, aching thing muscles and the lingering
foul smell of the camel. Humayun, the second Mughal Emperior, had to
cross the whole Thar desert on camel back. So can you. Sunrise is a
wonderful experience. It is always so cool in the morning and the sky
is so gorgeous.
Prefer riding a male
camel. What if your female camel is pursued by males! Desert
loneliness has strange, unpredictable side effects. Try a smaller
trip and be prepared for the adventure. This is the best way to see
for yourself things beyond fancy descriptions in the tourist
brochures. Reality can be much more charming.
THE FOREST FROZEN IN TIEM
If the Jaislamer fort
offers one of the most romantic and spectacular chapters in the
history of Rajasthan, the Akal Wood Fossil Park takes you back some
one hundred and eighty million years to the Jurassic period when the
whole Thar region lay under the sea. The 21 hectare preserved area of
the park lies 15 kilometers from Jaisalmer on the road to Barmer.
The fossilized logs of trees trunks are now exposed to view.
Innumerable trunks lie buried deep under sand, 25 are seen and 15 are
above the ground. The largest log is seven meters in length and 1.5
meters in width. The wood fossils are an example where the process of
petrifaction took precedence over disintegration of organic matter
and fossilized the wood. These are present gymnosperms like chir,
deodar or redwoods of Jurassic age, and are the non-flowering
variety. Buried under sand and subjected to a slow process of
disintegration over millions of years the cell contents of the trees
are replaced by Silica and other mineral compounds under steady
pressure. The original structure and composition of the cell wall is
retained. The original organic part is thus fossilized, retaining its
taxonomical structure.
The Thar had been under
sea water at least four times since the Triassic period (225 million
years ago) whereafter the sea reclaimed the land at periodic
intervals of some twenty five and thirty million years. Animal and
wood fossils of those days have now come to surface at a few places.
The legacy of limestone had sandstone deposits with their fossils of
ammonites suggests this geological upheaval. During the following
Creataceous period between 135 and 63 million years ago, this area
became a land mass covered with forests. The sea came and left behind
rocks with marine fossils. Yet another visitation by the sea left
behind foraminifer or tiny unicellular, shelled organisms. Slow
accumulation and disintegration of these bodies at the bottom of the
sea is believed to be responsible for the formation of oil and
natural gas in the Thar region. Nearly 35 million years ago the sea
finally withdrew from the Thar. The Akal wood fossils should be of
terrific interest to those who care to know the real desert.
AROUND JAISALMER
RTDC arranges excellent
short trips by deluxe coaches to palaces of cultural and
architectural interest around Jaisalmer.
Lodurva, the ancient
capital of Bhattis is 16 kilometers from Jaisalmer. Mostly in ruins,
it is visited for the great Jain temple which contains the most
exquisite jail work screens, grand ceiling and a magnificent
triumphal arch at the entrance. The original carriage for the deity,
made in 1675, is still preserved. The most interesting object dart is
Kalpataru, a mythical tree of wish fulfillment. Lodurva has a great
number of peacocks which hover around the temple walls lending
spectacular colour to the dry and stony landscape. Here once flowed
the river Kak. Along its banks had flourished the romance between
princess Momal, and prince Mathendru of Amarkot. Their tragic end is
the theme of folk songs. When the lovers perished, the river Kak
stopped flowing.
From Lodurva, the road to
Jaisalmer passes through Amar Sagar which has a grand artificial
reservoir for water, a temple and a promenade on the bank. Lovely
place for a picnic. Bada Bagh, cenotaphs of the Jaishalmer Rawals,
has some magnificent chattris (canopies) set amidst an oasis of
greenery. The elegant chattris are in white marble and mostly in the
fabulous yellow sandstone. A great place for a stop-over and
photography. Another beautiful place is the Gadi Sagar Tank, the main
source of the city’s water supply. Early morning on the tank is
charming with the temples resounding with chanting of mantras and
prayers. The main gateway was built by a courtesan, Telon, who
installed a Krishna image atop the arched gateway to ward off royal
ire at having had to pass under a construction financed by her.
One of the most
interesting places is Kuldhara village. This is among the 84 villages
inhabited by the rich, hard-working Paliwals. The Paliwals deserted
their houses overnight with the curse that anyone who removed even a
stone from the houses would come to grief and perish. Howling winds
rush through empty streets and skeletons of houses now exposed to the
elements remains of the village. Film directors in search of eerie
settings find Kuldhara and other such villages ideal for filming.
GETTING THERE
Indian Airlines has a
twice weekly service to Jodhpur, Vayudoot operates three flights from
Delhi.
By Rail
From Jodhpur there is a
direct train to Jaisalmer for overnight journey, except on Wednesday.
The journey takes approximately ten hours.
The Palace on Wheels is
the most luxurious way to travel to Jaisalmer, recreating within the
coaches the ambience of the legendary palace comforts. Advance
reservation required.
By Road
Jaisalmer is 897
kilometers
From Delhi; 638
kilometers
From Jaipur; 285
kilometers
From Jodhpur; 500
kilometers
From Ajmer and 330
kilometers from Bikaner.
Where to Stay
Excellent accommodation
is available at Narayan Niwas Palace and Moomal Tourist Bungalow,
Hotel Himmatgarh and Jaisal Castle. Advance reservation is necessary
during the festival seasons.
Budget accommodation is
available at many modestly priced but well appointed hotels: Swastika
Guest House, Fort View Hotel, New Tourist Hotel, Hotel Pleasure, and
many more to suit every budget.
Climate
At an altitude of 793
meters, maximum temperature is 46 degrees celcius and minimum 354
degrees celcius. In winter the highest is 14 and lowest is 1 degree
celcius. Best season to visit Jaisalmer is between October and March.
Shopping
Exquisite embroidery with
mirrorwork in a brilliant mosaic of colours in cotton for garments,
lenen and puches, also used for festive decoration on camels.
Traditional rugs, blankets and shawls, silver jewellery, stone work,
camel hair carpets and large sheets of pieces of colourful silk and
cotton cloth embroidered together to form enchanting abstract
designs.
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